R,D,3,2,1 nothing!!!
07-27-2012, 04:17 AM
#14
The sleeve Kit Vince is refereeing to is made by Sonnax. It's known as "Input drum Reinforcement Kit". It runs about $50-$60
It involves a stainless ring and a modified old style overrun piston and seal. It helps prevent the failure shown above.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77733-01K.pdf
HTH
It involves a stainless ring and a modified old style overrun piston and seal. It helps prevent the failure shown above.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77733-01K.pdf
HTH
07-27-2012, 06:38 AM
#15
The sleeve Kit Vince is refereeing to is made by Sonnax. It's known as "Input drum Reinforcement Kit". It runs about $50-$60
It involves a stainless ring and a modified old style overrun piston and seal. It helps prevent the failure shown above.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77733-01K.pdf
HTH
It involves a stainless ring and a modified old style overrun piston and seal. It helps prevent the failure shown above.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77733-01K.pdf
HTH
Last edited by Vince B; 07-29-2012 at 07:21 AM. Reason: reword...
07-28-2012, 12:14 AM
#16
Well the kit I use is similar but does not use the factory over run piston. I designed a billet piston that relocates the outer lip seal and it just works. If you use the kit from sonnax you should add their billet forward piston so you do not have over run clutch seal failures when using a factory steel bonded piston. You could use the factory aluminum piston from a 700R4 but they do break from time to time. I feel the billet piston I designed is a much better option and is cheaper in the long run. Just a heads up.
Last edited by Vince B; 07-29-2012 at 07:21 AM.
07-29-2012, 07:44 AM
#17
Its not so much that its billet its the location of the lip seal. As stated above there are issues with using the combination of early and late parts. IMO there are only two options if you are going to use a sleeved input drum. When I was building these units about 10 years ago I looked for a solution to this problem. After looking at the parts and making some measurements it was pretty obvious as to why the seals failed. I did test the sonnax piece and helped them make a correction in their forward billet piston. Chris at Circle D also has an over run piece that we shared ideas and notes. I did test his design as well and gave my input on it. Our designs are similar but both use the factory steel bonded piston. IMO this is the best way to go.
07-29-2012, 11:06 AM
#18
Well after 3 days and some money the truck is back running, i was about to buy the parts to make my 60e more stronger but i decided i will swap over to 80e now, i just wish i hadnt bought the circle d triple disk converter for the 60e but for the 80e.... will have too sell it
Ill give my opninion on the 60e, i REALLY regret not going 80e from the first problem i had, the stock one gave out, bought a lev. 2 performabuilt wish gave out after 7 months or so, warrenty was great,Welling frank really did his part on that, my respect, now i was actually happy with the 60e cuz i got some good miles on it but only a lil more then 400 hp with nitrous, i dont feel safe with it anymore
Just my opinion
Ill give my opninion on the 60e, i REALLY regret not going 80e from the first problem i had, the stock one gave out, bought a lev. 2 performabuilt wish gave out after 7 months or so, warrenty was great,Welling frank really did his part on that, my respect, now i was actually happy with the 60e cuz i got some good miles on it but only a lil more then 400 hp with nitrous, i dont feel safe with it anymore
Just my opinion
