I started my 408 build a few weeks ago and as Im sure many of you have experienced the urge to do more has hit me. I currently have a stock suspension with Beltech 2" rear shackles. Im doing springs in the front. What hangers do I need to get the rear down 2 more inchs or is it not that easy. Thanks in advance!

 

YOU NEED TO START BY BY BUYING SOME NEW LUG NUTS, THE CHROME ACORN TAPERED SEAT, THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE DESIRED DROP YOU WISH FOR.

 

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Belltech makes good hangars and I think there's a few other brands. Dont think there's much difference in the brand. Getting the stocker off is the hard part.

 

Most are the same. If you are using cal-tracs you will need to mod them for clearance. Like Trever1T said the hard part is getting the stock ones off. Those rivets are a bitch.

 

No Cal's. I just ordered some Eibachs since the tire rack had them and thats where I bought my springs and brakes. I have a heavy conscience(sp) right now. I went from spending 3k on heads,intake,and injectors to over 12k on the previous items,a 408, FLT Stage 5,drop,brakes,etc... within a month period. Basiclly a overhaul. Thanks for the help! By the way I dont know if anyone of you knew about this or remember but CRAZYCUTER4.8 is the guy a few years ago that "supposodly" got banned from here for making sexual passes(messages,pictures,etc...) to the male members. So dont open any pm's from him.

 

YEAH! SO WHAT? YOU STILL WASHING & CUTTING YOUR DADDY'S HAIR?

CASCO INDUSTRIES ROBS LOCAL FIRE DEPARTMENTS!!
HAIL TO CASCO INDUSTRIES......

 

What the hell?

 

Your stupid. Don't waste our time here. Go somewhere else and bullshit.

Jim

 

The rivets were actually very easy to remove.
Taking the bed off is very easy and highly recommended. You will need either 2 strong guys or 4 makes it really easy to lift off bed.
Have truck propped up on 4 jack stands by the frame. Remove rear tires.
Have a hydraulic floor jack under the differential to move the diff up or down.
Remove the lower rear shock bolts.
On the driver side, remove the parking brake cable retainer brackets as well(optional, but recommended).
Use a pistol grip air chisel to remove rivets. Use a cut-off bit (tip shaped like a half moon with double sided blade edges) and a chisel bit that has one side flat and the other side with the blade. The flat sided bit will be used to wedge up the rivet edges, and the cut-off bit will take them off from there. I'd say 20-30 seconds a rivet, and its off.
I used McGaughy's adjustable hangers. They have 2 hole positions, a lower hole (3-1/2" drop) and an upper hole for a 4" drop.
Since the McGaughy hangers offered the lower hole, it allowed clearance free use of my Caltracs.
NOTE: Install leaf springs to hangers PRIOR to installing hangers to frame!!! You'll never get the bolt in if you dont. I torques the hanger bolts to 65 ft lbs.
The only other thing is going to be your pinion angle. If you use the Belltech 2" shackles and hangers to get a 4" drop, you will need a 1* shim installed with fat side to front between the axle pad and the leaf pack. Belltech's rear hanger "kit" comes with the 1* shim and shortened bump stops. You can shorten your factory bump stops on your own like I did. A factory trimmed bump stop is way more forgiving (if you bottom out) upon the axle hitting them.
*Don't overtighten the leaf spring to hanger bolts or any of the shackle bolts.
*I'd use a medium locktite on all suspension bolts.
The driver side will be hard to get the bolts in due to gas tank being in the way, but it can be done without removing it. A helper will make things all the easier.
Install everything that was removed now.
Double check your work.
Good Luck!

Jim

 

LOOK DIPSHIT! I AM THE ONE DOING THE DROP ON THE TRUCK, IT IS DONE. CAN YOU NOT READ DATES ON POST! IN FACT I HAVE DONE ALL THE WORK SO FAR... IF I CAN'T DO SOME THREAD JACKING BETWEEN FRIENDS WITHOUT SOME QUEER FROM MONTROSE COMING IN, WHAT IS THIS COMING TO?