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Overtightened pinion nut and clush sleeve?

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Old 02-22-2016, 10:26 PM
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Default Overtightened pinion nut and clush sleeve?

Hey guys I'm new to the site I'm just trying to get help about some dodgy work done to my truck.

I have a 07 classic with 170k and the pinion seal was leaking as in dripping so I needed to replace it asap so my freind who works in a shop said he'd do it. He's done a million 8.6 pinion seals but when he started he did not mark the nut location or even the driveshaft location with the yoke, use an impact to take it off, then used his impact to put the nut back on and overtightened it then backed off a bit until he could spin it about the same as he could before he pulled the nut off and didn't even use a beam torque wrench to check the rotation or anything. I'm not the most knowledgeable but would that have ruined the crush sleeve and also made preload ruined as well? The truck doesn't make any weird noises in drive or coast and coast feels normal but drive feels slightly tighter, like it just feels like it needs more force to get it moving from a stop and at cruising speeds. I complained and he said he'd bring it back in and put a new crush sleeve but I really don't want my rear end to grenade in 20-30,000 becuase he didn't check roational force or mark the nut or anything taking it off. Does anyone know what that number should be for 170,000 bearings on a new crush sleeve and with the carrier and axles still attached? (I'm not removing the cover) I know it's like 5-10 inch pounds on used beading but I have to consider the axle and carrier are gonna stay connected so would something like 10-15 be good? Thank you guys for helping Im just super **** about stuff like this and I don't want my completely fine beforehand rear end blowing up on my because my freind did things by air tools and feel alone
Old 02-23-2016, 12:32 PM
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Overtightening does ruin the preload that is set with the cush sleeve. FYI I have never been able to replace a crush sleeve without Removing the axle shafts, carrier and pinion gear. The Outside smaller pinion bearing has a tight friction fit that usually requires tapping or air hammering the pinion gear out of the housing to get the bearing removed, and then the crush sleeve is behind that. If it is really hard to turn, chances are the bearings will need to be replaced. If you catch it right away the gears should still be ok. The wrong preload (tight) can also suck that Pinion away from the Ring gear interrupting the correct backlash.
Old 02-23-2016, 03:55 PM
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He checked the roational force by hand and again after he was done, and checked backlash by moving it and listening to the clicks of the gears. His higher up tech helped me today, backed it off just a tad and said if the rear end happens to go for a bearing reason he'd warranty everything himself so since that's resolved I'm just gonna drive it and try to forget it because now I don't have any issues it doesn't feel weird or anything and I don't have any odd noises
Old 02-23-2016, 09:09 PM
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You cannot set bearing preload/rotational force with the rear end assembled. He did it the only way possible with the rear end still put together. Course I woulda marked it. Doesn't mean I like that way of doing it either.
Old 03-03-2016, 08:19 PM
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Just thought I should let you guys know, I drove the truck for about 500 miles, took it to my hometown. Had a LOUD howling noise. Took it to a local shop and the rear end had failed from the bearings being way too tight. They could not turn the yoke by hand at all and the pinion bearing was physically crushed. Metal was all throughout as well, but they saved the ring and pinion gear along with the carrier and rebuilt the rest. Do yourself a favor and let the seal leak, or do it yourself or have someone who actually cares and not someone who is a jackass who thinks the correct way is overrated touch it.
Old 03-03-2016, 10:39 PM
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That stinks. I'm sorry to hear.
Old 03-03-2016, 10:52 PM
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Wow that sucks. The way he did it, his mistake was to over tighten and then loosen. I've done a few like that; without taking everything apart, and always went the last few turns slowly with the impact a few degrees at a time just so I would barely get the drag I'm looking for ... never had a issue.
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