locking diff
#11
Originally Posted by bad intentions
well i dont do a burn out past the start i just coast on by it like if i dont know where to line up then i back up into the stage then am gone....
I see, that wouldnt fly at the tracks around here. You are not allowed past the beams unless you are a rail or funny car or Pro mod, pretty much if you arent a pro-class, you MUST stay behind the lights. If you do it accidentally fine, the officials arent that sticky, but I have seen drivers booted for not obeying that rule.
peace
Hog
#12
Originally Posted by hog
The stock G80 Locking dif. AKA Eaton Gov loc locks when thee axles speeds are 100 rpm different. The dif wont lock at speeds over 30 mph, this avoids the tendency of the truck to want to go straight when taking gentle bends on the freeway. The stock locking rear cant be "locked" using the method you describe, there must be a rpm difference as the "locker" is engaged by centrifugal force.
I had a Powertrax lockrite and it wanted to go staright on the freeway. I hated that locker, I broke 3 of them, just brutal.
You can spend $400 on a Detroit Truetrac. I would go Truetrac over even an Eaton Carbon.
Scroll down this link and you will see a pic of the Detroit Truetrac, it is might beefy. The pics are from a 10 bolt 8.5" dif.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewto...light=truetrac
It sounds like you might want a Detroit Locker, whatever you do avoid Powertrax no slip or Powertrax lock rite, they say there is no parts to waer, but that is just crap, its a straight up blatant lie. There are metal cogged wheels that ride on one another during a shrp corner, it doenst take long to wear out. I tried to save some money up front but the excessive driveline slop ate away my axle splines, wreacked havoc with my ABS and made loud noises when cornering. The worsty was when turning sharp to enter a parking spot, it sounded like the rearend was actually breaking pinion or ring gear teeth, never again.
here is a good post with a bunch of different traction aids ie: lockers and posi's, posted by my friend PSWired, I am also Hog on that forum.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewto...light=truetrac
peace
Hog
I had a Powertrax lockrite and it wanted to go staright on the freeway. I hated that locker, I broke 3 of them, just brutal.
You can spend $400 on a Detroit Truetrac. I would go Truetrac over even an Eaton Carbon.
Scroll down this link and you will see a pic of the Detroit Truetrac, it is might beefy. The pics are from a 10 bolt 8.5" dif.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewto...light=truetrac
It sounds like you might want a Detroit Locker, whatever you do avoid Powertrax no slip or Powertrax lock rite, they say there is no parts to waer, but that is just crap, its a straight up blatant lie. There are metal cogged wheels that ride on one another during a shrp corner, it doenst take long to wear out. I tried to save some money up front but the excessive driveline slop ate away my axle splines, wreacked havoc with my ABS and made loud noises when cornering. The worsty was when turning sharp to enter a parking spot, it sounded like the rearend was actually breaking pinion or ring gear teeth, never again.
here is a good post with a bunch of different traction aids ie: lockers and posi's, posted by my friend PSWired, I am also Hog on that forum.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewto...light=truetrac
peace
Hog
It is basically impossible to guarantee a way to lock the gov loc in. Everything Hog said is correct. There is a gear drive mechanism that will twist and engage the locking device when there is considerable differentiation between the two axles, then centrifugal force disengages it. It is nice for getting out of wet grass but worthless on the track. Go with the truetrac or at least an eaton. The truetrac can be had for as little as $350 if you shop around on the net.
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