Light weight regular cab helped it live and also chewed up gears post your own posts.

Also, snap an axle and risk your life into a wall.

I've twisted axle with much less power

 

Any rear that has c clips can cause you to hit wall


Anytime you make power and run on radials youll chew gears up...its part of game

Local guy goes thru gears in his 12 bolt 1 set per race season

 

I just finished narrowing and building my 10 bolt. I have a lot more into it than you could buy a 6 lug 14 bolt for, but a decent part of the cost was having it narrowed. The good thing is the unsprung weight savings of the 10b, I'm awd so I wasn't too concerned about needing a 14b. I think a built 10b would work just fine for you, but keep in mind that if you have to buy gears and stuff you'll be around that 1000$ mark.

 

Exactly, why spend that much on a 14b and still need a trutrac. I think I'll take my chances with the 10b for now while I do a cheap turbo build on the 4.8 and worry about it when the lq4 block is built. Thanks for the help guys

 

 

Do you just have to replace the axles to convert to 6 lug?

 

Correct. But the 10b axles are much smaller.

 

You would need to do the following:

1. Purchase 88-98 4wd 14SF 6 lug shafts.
2. Have two hub centric rings made to properly pilot the 8 lug rotor on the 6 lug shafts.
3. Drill the 6 lug pattern into the 8 lug rotors.

Done.

If you purchase a good used 8 lug SF from a 2000+ year model truck (measure width for certainty), it is possible to have nice strong axle for around $600.

With this you have the benefit of the large 8 lug brakes, larger wheel bearings (bigger than AXN 14SF), and larger axle tubes (again, larger than AXN).

 

How is the 14SF a HUGE power robber? Can you define HUGE?

 

Maybe I'm wrong but, I think he meant the 14FF...