How to Drop your 4x4
05-17-2012, 10:42 PM
#41
Staging Lane
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Whar are you guys doing with your bumpstops? Jouncers correct? I started with a 2" keys/2" shackles/block removed on my 02. When I did this I pulled the spacer brackets on the rear bumps and cut them down about 1", in the front I cut 1" or so off. I did not like the ride so I went back to stock. This was with new shocks also.
i had cut down my front and rear bumpstops about an inch at first but it rode terrible, i could barley drive over a pebble without my head hitting the roof. so i ended up completely removing the front stops and removing the spacer in the rear. the difference was night and day between the two, it rides so much smoother now.
05-18-2012, 09:37 PM
#43
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i just pulled the rubber out (is comes off easily) and left the cup there... i think the bumpstop was putting pressure on the control arm because i swear it lowered the truck and 3/4 of an inch.... u have to cut the cup off to remove it. i lowered the front 3 inches and the rear about 4.
11-25-2012, 09:55 PM
#44
bringin' this thread back... VIVA LA BUDHAYES!
anyone here lowered 4wd run tie-rod sleeves on their 1500? If so, what brand? Post up some pics!
oh, and Oleg, you should post up some pics/thoughts/first hand experience with those shiny new RCV Axles!!! make me drool some more, haha. Oh, and any clocking ring pics?
anyone here lowered 4wd run tie-rod sleeves on their 1500? If so, what brand? Post up some pics!
oh, and Oleg, you should post up some pics/thoughts/first hand experience with those shiny new RCV Axles!!! make me drool some more, haha. Oh, and any clocking ring pics?
12-02-2012, 11:13 PM
#45
Staging Lane
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Here is mine...looks hi cuz I bent down to take the pics but sits nice on the 22s. I also had to get a custom driveshaft made!
Front:
MOOG offset bushings to help alignment (good advice from mr shredsled...thanks man)
Belltech 2" spindles
Adjusted lowering keys
Rear:
Blocks removed
Belltech 4 inch drop leafs
Stock shackles
With tow bags going in this week!
Front:
MOOG offset bushings to help alignment (good advice from mr shredsled...thanks man)
Belltech 2" spindles
Adjusted lowering keys
Rear:
Blocks removed
Belltech 4 inch drop leafs
Stock shackles
With tow bags going in this week!
12-03-2012, 11:10 AM
#46
Staging Lane
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^such a nice ride!
well, here are some old photos I found from last year when I updated my front suspension.
The truck was just DJM LCA's and McGaughy lowering keys, and it had some odd alignment issues when uncranked down to ~4"+ of drop, and was putting a LOT of stress on upper ball-joints, tearing and deforming boots, and also tie-rods as well. Was getting some odd ackerman angles when turning and creating tire scrub, esp. when backing up.
So, I decided to add some new version Belltech 2508 spindles (also considered McGaughy spindles too, but went with Belltech since it gave more clearance over CV Boot and upper ball-joint stud), that way I could crank the lowering keys back up and level out my tie-rods and everything a bit more compared to the prior set-up.
By adding the spindle into the equation, I was also able to thread in the torsion key bolts nearly all the way, reducing their vulnerability when hanging out below the frame and possibly snapping off if scraping a driveway or speedbump, etc.
I also flipped the upper ball-joints in my upper control arms to get better operating angle for the ball-joint to sit in, reducing the stress on it and the boot and significantly increasing ball-joint performance and life. Luckily for us, the UCA's are perfectly symmetrical when flipped, with the exception of the angle on the outer area where the BJ is pressed into.
Below you can see the photos I copied and pasted from an older thread.
I also pressed in some Moog offset UCA bushings to give better camber adjustment. Belltech also makes some offset UCA bushings, which I believe have even more offset than the Moogs.
This is basically a cheap man's version of the DJM UCA's.
using an impact and cheap harbor freight bj press for flipping the bj's and installing the bushings
shot of quick comparison of UCA's, one with flipped BJ, and the other with reg position
well, here are some old photos I found from last year when I updated my front suspension.
The truck was just DJM LCA's and McGaughy lowering keys, and it had some odd alignment issues when uncranked down to ~4"+ of drop, and was putting a LOT of stress on upper ball-joints, tearing and deforming boots, and also tie-rods as well. Was getting some odd ackerman angles when turning and creating tire scrub, esp. when backing up.
So, I decided to add some new version Belltech 2508 spindles (also considered McGaughy spindles too, but went with Belltech since it gave more clearance over CV Boot and upper ball-joint stud), that way I could crank the lowering keys back up and level out my tie-rods and everything a bit more compared to the prior set-up.
By adding the spindle into the equation, I was also able to thread in the torsion key bolts nearly all the way, reducing their vulnerability when hanging out below the frame and possibly snapping off if scraping a driveway or speedbump, etc.
I also flipped the upper ball-joints in my upper control arms to get better operating angle for the ball-joint to sit in, reducing the stress on it and the boot and significantly increasing ball-joint performance and life. Luckily for us, the UCA's are perfectly symmetrical when flipped, with the exception of the angle on the outer area where the BJ is pressed into.
Below you can see the photos I copied and pasted from an older thread.
I also pressed in some Moog offset UCA bushings to give better camber adjustment. Belltech also makes some offset UCA bushings, which I believe have even more offset than the Moogs.
This is basically a cheap man's version of the DJM UCA's.
using an impact and cheap harbor freight bj press for flipping the bj's and installing the bushings
shot of quick comparison of UCA's, one with flipped BJ, and the other with reg position
12-03-2012, 11:14 AM
#47
bringin' this thread back... VIVA LA BUDHAYES!
anyone here lowered 4wd run tie-rod sleeves on their 1500? If so, what brand? Post up some pics!
oh, and Oleg, you should post up some pics/thoughts/first hand experience with those shiny new RCV Axles!!! make me drool some more, haha. Oh, and any clocking ring pics?
anyone here lowered 4wd run tie-rod sleeves on their 1500? If so, what brand? Post up some pics!
oh, and Oleg, you should post up some pics/thoughts/first hand experience with those shiny new RCV Axles!!! make me drool some more, haha. Oh, and any clocking ring pics?
08-18-2013, 11:08 AM
#48
Launching!
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Bumping an old thread but here's what I did to mine it's lowered about 5.5/8
Front consists of: McGaughy's 2" Spindles, 3" keys decranked, and DJM UCA
Rear: Flip kit and 2" drop shackles. With 255/45/R20 tires up front It measures 28.5" from ground to Fender.
So far I've put about 3k miles this low, Only problems I've had Is that I had to remove the front bump stop and it'll still lay the cap on the LCA so I cut it off, and one of my Upper ball joints broke(that's when I went with DJM UCA)
I haven't taken a good look at my rear driveshaft about having to get shortened but I do get alot of wheel hop at WOT (guessing due to the crappy air shocks)
It gets the job done full of cargo with the airshock around 150psi.
[/QUOTE]
W/ 80psi on shocks
This is how my CV angles used to look before I went a full inch lower
Passenger side
Drivers side
Front consists of: McGaughy's 2" Spindles, 3" keys decranked, and DJM UCA
Rear: Flip kit and 2" drop shackles. With 255/45/R20 tires up front It measures 28.5" from ground to Fender.
So far I've put about 3k miles this low, Only problems I've had Is that I had to remove the front bump stop and it'll still lay the cap on the LCA so I cut it off, and one of my Upper ball joints broke(that's when I went with DJM UCA)
I haven't taken a good look at my rear driveshaft about having to get shortened but I do get alot of wheel hop at WOT (guessing due to the crappy air shocks)
It gets the job done full of cargo with the airshock around 150psi.
[/QUOTE]W/ 80psi on shocks
This is how my CV angles used to look before I went a full inch lower
Passenger side
Drivers side
Last edited by TRD_Tundra; 08-18-2013 at 11:13 AM.
