Hard shifting 4L80E after overhaul
#11
Awesome! Will do. The trans was perfect for about 20 miles before it started banging into gear. Hopefully that fixes it. If not I will change the separator plate. If that doesn't do it then I'm thinking boost valve.
#12
I changed the force motor today with a new one and am still having the same hard shifts at light throttle.
I may not have had all the tables set to stock and when I did after changing the force motor I am now getting 75psi at idle in neutral and park but it bumps up to 100 in drive (at idle). Is this normal? It tends to fluctuate about 5-10lbs constanly in gear too. I get 150psi+ under hard acceleration which seems normal. I will change the separator plate next I think. Any other ideas?
Thanks for the advice so far!
I may not have had all the tables set to stock and when I did after changing the force motor I am now getting 75psi at idle in neutral and park but it bumps up to 100 in drive (at idle). Is this normal? It tends to fluctuate about 5-10lbs constanly in gear too. I get 150psi+ under hard acceleration which seems normal. I will change the separator plate next I think. Any other ideas?
Thanks for the advice so far!
#13
The increase in gear is probably a programming thing. When you go into gear does the RPM go up some? If so then I would say this is why. Another thing to look at is what is your pressure under light throttle when the trans shifts? This might be something that you can manipulate in the tune. Not knowing the size that the feed holes were drilled it sounds like your headed in the right direction with looking at the separator plate. If the holes are .093 or smaller then I would look at what has been done with the accumulator valve in the valve body. I have seen where some builders will remove this spring all together to make the shifts more firm. With the TG kit they give you two blue springs to adjust the shifts. Keep in mind the stiffer the springs on this valve the lighter the shift feel will be.
#14
Same issue but only the 1-2 is too firm for my liking and only at low throttle. I zeroed the added pressure in the tune for low load and still banged into gear so I just lowered the mph that the low throttle 1-2 happened and it helped a bunch. I am having the sprag problem fixed today/tomorrow and asked him to see what springs were on that spool valve so we will see if there is room for improvement there. HD2 kit with holes drilled average (.086). Let me know if you solve it...
#16
Seems like I have read of people actually lowering the force motor current tables below stock values after putting in built trannys,servo's etc.
Last edited by swift700; Oct 10, 2012 at 11:33 AM.
#17
OK, it looks like I got it nailed. I dialed in the shift tables and have the tranny shifting smooth like a Cadillac now. I adjusted the force motor current downwards by 20 percent and adjusted the shift pressure modifier tables in the 0-160ft-lb range for 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts. It no longer jumps to 100psi in gear at idle. It sits around 70psi now and shifts at 75psi or so at light throttle. It peaks at 150 at higher throttle. I'll see how it goes long-term and will keep posted if anything changes. Thanks again for the help, guys.
#18
would you mind posting your force motor current table in excel, I would like to play with this sometime soon and it would help to compare. Now I am sure I could fix mine as that was my last resort. Before and after if you are willing. Thank you!
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