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Which gears and axel splilne size to support 1000 hp?

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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 09:38 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by built408
If you don't plan on putting big sticky slicks on it and taking it to the track, the stock rear end with a girdle will be fine, with that much power you will just blow the tires off.
You also have told me what I wanted to hear and I appreciate your effort.

Maybe a built 408 is what I need. Sounds cheaper than the 427. How much power could I expect to make with the MP122 sc, and my Dart heads on a 408?
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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Jim, you inspire me. You can't take it with you! I get some-what annoyed by those that refuse to enjoy their savings etc. at 60+. If you have kids and grandkids that are doing well, then why not take advantage of what you worked for.

And I know the 427 ci number sounds good but you can make much more power with 408 and a blower.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 05:59 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by TurboGibbs
Jim, you inspire me. You can't take it with you! I get some-what annoyed by those that refuse to enjoy their savings etc. at 60+. If you have kids and grandkids that are doing well, then why not take advantage of what you worked for.

And I know the 427 ci number sounds good but you can make much more power with 408 and a blower.

Thanks Bud! Since coming on board a few years back it's been you "kids" that have inspired me. It's good to know that I've given something back.

I dreamed last night about 408's and 427's and it came down to using the same blower and spinning it at the same speed I'd get significantly more boost in the smaller 408 and probably make just about the same power... probably pretty close.

But... Do my heads work on the 427? It's hard to back off from the idea of 30 or 40 or almost 50 more ci.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 07:49 AM
  #14  
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I might be missing something, but if you are keeping leaf springs in the stock locations, tubbing the bed will do nothing for you. I'm running 335s on custom offset wheels and there is plenty of wheel-well room. The limit is the spring.

As far as the 10-bolt vs 14-bolt, yes Parish ran his setup with a 10-bolt. No, it was not a stock 10-bolt for long. It got destroyed by Kyle Then as I recall Jim put in an Eaton. He made some runs on the Eaton to be sure, but took the truck down not long after the upgrade and sold it after that.

If you want worry free axles, a 14 bolt is the way to go with 1000hp. The axles are ridiculously beefy (as is everything else).
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 10:46 PM
  #15  
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I have brokenthe axles in a 91 454SS truck with a 468 bigblock making 550rwhp on slicks. Dont use a SF axle on any high power project. It gets messy when the axles/wheels eject out of the housing

Strange S60 FTW.

peace
Pauly
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 11:53 PM
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I agree that a 14 bolt is stronger. But, if you can stand a VERY rare circumstance of a 10 bolt with aftermarket carrier and supportive rear that fails, you will be ahead in my prospective. In the worst case scenario, you will have a roll back bill to pay for + a 14 bolt.
A low risk for the cost IMO.

When I see people using emory cloth to hand lap in a rod journal on a crank to make it to the race that night and win I have a hard time justifying some of the overkill ****. I'm talking about a crank journal hand lapped in while still in the car from .010" under to .020" under on one rod and go and win on a dirt track that night.

I'm all about a little overkill for insurance but every now and then it is rediculous.
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 03:10 PM
  #17  
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I've invested in the 4.56's and the Locker so I'll probably try to make them work until they don't work ESPECIALLY since I won't be racing it, probably won't be getting on it from a dead stop and won't be using slicks. Just havin fun enjoying the power.

I am worried about the transmission and will be looking into an 80e soon.

Any experiences with the paddle shifters available? They look like fun on the street and also for good conversation at shows but do they work?
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