They sure do make a nasty noise when they blow lol.....

Hey bro what kind of work did you get done to your 60E i have been considering some work on mine to be on the safe side i just dont where to take it or what to get done I also live in Houston thanks.

 

This may help your quest: https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=432962

 

Sorry to hear that. I'm sure glad I ordered mt truetrac a few days ago. Hope to have it in ,in about a week or two. What type of gear oil are you putting in after the truetrac is in. Is Royal Purple worth the extra $$$$ or just put the oem oil with the additive back in????

 

I was going to assemble one myself for my S10, but ended up taking all the parts I bought and had a local transmission guy assemble it for my daily driver. I didn't cheap out on any parts, and I think that's the most important part to having something that will hold up. That and having a reputable builder do the work and have a WARRANTY. If a builder doesn't want to stand behind their stuff and give you a warranty then don't mess with them. Also, a good torque converter (ie Yank, PI, Circle D) will help. Between all the parts and labor I spent 1600 on the transmission and torque converter. If you want specs on the parts I bought just lemme know.

Eaton actually says to put OEM spec oil in the case. No synthetics or additives/modifiers. I wouldn't run RP in your rearend since it's not worth the extra money when you have a good diff. I'm just going to run whatever is a good price at AutoZone/Oreillys.

 

I used castroil 75w90. I cost like $4 per quart I believe and I used 2.18 quarts (I measured, yes I'm retarded like that). I changed the gear oil (guy who did it for me put in 80w90) at 500 miles or so....which in retrospect was completely useless, part of which I attribute to the use of AAM gears (wouldn't recommend any other given the slight increase in cost). The AAM gears are heat treated from the factory at 1500 degrees I've read which far exceeds any "break in" you could possibly do in your rear end, so not much debris will be released. In my case, there was nothing in my oil.

 

I have always ran straight Lucas 75W140 with my G80... And I've always been hard on it, slicks, burnouts, donuts, you name it. And mine still locks up perfect every time.

I've got a tru-trac now and run the same fluid, no additives. The Lucas is HEAVY... But its great stuff.

 

What does the "140" part signify? I thought the 75W signified the weight or viscosity of the oil. The only reason I put in 75w90 versus the cheaper 80w90 is the fact that I thought theoretically I'd lose a little bit of power to the wheels with a heavier oil

 

140 Maximum viscosity at operating temp.

The number before the "W" is the cold viscosity.

 

Jake, you know Brian took care of my truck. Installed both the Yukon 4.10's and TruTrac. Just stick to the 500 mile rule, check the fluid and you'd should be good to go. Brian does great work. I liked that he explained the process to me, b/c at that point I was still learning.

 

Like I said, its heavy. But losing a few hp to the wheels isn't a huge deal to me honestly... Esp if the parts are going to last better.

There's proof that RP isn't what its cracked up to be... And M1 isn't worth 8.99/qt for engine oil to me either when I can get Valvoline VR-1 for 3.99, and is better oil. I run 20w-50 in the motor, regular Dex III in he trans and Lucas molasses lube in the rear ... And have never had a problem with fluids.