Hi guys,
I've been looking for info on lowered Silverados and found a bunch. But I've got a coupla things going on.

1) 4-5 yrs ago, I dropped my '01 RCSB, 2wd, using DJM 3" lower control arms. Since then, bump steer, as I understand it, has been increasingly worsening. A coupla weeks ago I hit a bad pothole and damned near lost control. From what I've read so far, the OEM tie rods are of crappy quality. The truck only has about 72,000 miles on it. You guys think it's time to change both inner AND outer tie rod ends?

2) After looking at the angles of my tie rod ends I'm pretty sure the DJM arms need to go and get some drop spindles instead to use with my factory arms. I'm currently running 17" factory rims, from a newer silverado. Should I go with Bell or McGaughy's? BTW, I'll soon be going with a 17"x9" rim that has a bit more backspacing. I know this'll be a 2" drop and not 3", but the wheel/tire combo I'm gonna use needs the extra clearance. and one last question, if I do all this, will it help the bumpsteer problem, or am I just stuck with it as long as it's lowered?

Thanks for any help you can offer guys.

 

first of all, how is your alignment?

bumpsteer seems to be a hit or miss thing that can be different from truck to truck. If it's increasing in severity you probably have tie rods and/or bj going out.

I've got djm lca and belltech spindles, and no bumpsteer, handling and ride is great! I also flipped my factory uca and bj's and used some Moog offset uca bushings to gain more camber adjustment too.
I used moog outer tie rods and some cheapie mevotech inners, just because I already had them. If you're searching for something heavy duty I know CST makes an extremely stout inner/outer combo, but pricey. Also, if you live somewhere nice or only drive the truck on clean days (or just don't mind some squeaking and wear) you could go with heim steering with can also be height adjusted at tye spindle mount in order to travel more parallel to the lower arm for less alignment change through the susp travel... a lot of bagged guys run a setup like that but I've never felt the need on my static truck.

 

My alignment is ok, but that's relative as the alignment has never been spot-on since I put on the DJM lca's. The front wheels lean in a bit at the top, but there's been no noticeable tire wear on the inner ribs of tread. What I question regarding this situation is if the fronts are toe'd in to offset the camber, causing undue stress/wear on the parts.

After reading some related threads on here, I've noticed the OEM tierods might be suspected, especially the inners. If I'm gonna replace those, I'll do the outers as well. I have a local source for Moog parts, so that's probably what I'll get.

I can't use the heim setup because of the Ohio weather.

Also, I already picked up a set of the McGaughy's drop spindles to swap in. I'm not really looking forward to the amount of work, but I think I'm gonna be more happy with the alignment and more comfortable about the angle of the inner tierods. At the same time, I'm gonna be replacing my 2nd defective GM abs module with one from Module Masters. I guess while I'm doing all this I'll be using the Vette as my daily ride for a couple of days.

Thanks for your input, I really do appreciate it.

 

if your tires “lean in at the tops“ that means your alignment is NOT ok, your camber is negative and out of spec.

Good luck with the spindles, it really isn't too bad of a swap, as long as you can get the bj's and outer tie rod out with a few good whacks of the BFH on the right spots.

 

[QUOTE=ShredSled;4701273]if your tires “lean in at the tops“ that means your alignment is NOT ok, your camber is negative and out of spec.

QUOTE]

That's what I been figgerin'

 

It's now ben about 5 weeks since I asked for you guys to help me out, so now that everything is done, I'll let you know what I did in the final roundup of this thing.
I took out he DJM lca's w/ a 3" drop and went to a set of the McGaughy's 2" drop spindles. I was very close to using Bell Tech's stuff, but what I read on this forum made the difference. This was all regardless of the sarcastic jerk at McGaughy's that sits upon his throne while talking down to anyone who dares to ask, "Why?"
But on with the build...,

The more I got into the project, the more I saw it needed to be done, and the more it cost. I wasn't able to get the OEM bearing hubs loose from the OEM spindles, so I bought new ones along with new backing plates for the brakes. I also put in new upper and lower ball joints, and upper and lower control arm bushings from energy suspension. So far they seem great, and the guys at Summit Racing really helped out to. I ordered the bushing set on a Thurs. before going to work, and they were here at my door Friday when I got home. That was all on STANDARD shipping.

Finally, the inner/outer tie rods were replaced. Once I got it all aligned, It's been driving like a new truck again.
My next magical act, I'll be swapping out the ABS module for one I got from Module Masters a couple months ago.

Thanks again to all for the help and suggestions.

 

sounds good! I did nearly all the same to mine along with the susp. upgrades as well, no better time than when it's already apart.

Just curious what the different abs module is for?

Makes sense summit order was quick to you, they are your neighbor!

 

[QUOTE=ShredSled;4722900]
Just curious what the different abs module is for?

QUOTE]


The one on my truck is junk and has been for a couple years now. That's the 2nd GM POS module that's been on there.

 

Bigbob im looking at dropping my truck 3/4. I already have a two inch shackle in the rear, so im just needing 2'' rear. i had a few questions. how does the angle of the tie rods look with the spindles, for the inch you lost did you add a spring or keep it 2'',and Did you remove or mod the front bump stops? Thanks for the help im on my second abs module!

 

As far as the tierods go, they look great on mine now. If you were to use a 2" spindle and a 1" spring I'm sure you'd be just fine. I just used Mcgaughy's 2' drop spindles with the OEM springs. I did not alter the front bump stops.

For the rear, you can either go with a set of lower spring hangers for the front of the leaf springs, or get a set of lower leaf springs. If you have a reputable frame and suspension shop anywhere near you, they can most likely re-arch your leaf springs to give you the desired drop. Total cost of having them do it may even be less than swapping springs in your drivway.