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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:17 AM
  #21  
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Please keep us updated. How are you going to keep the front diff locked in?
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:34 AM
  #22  
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I will be running an AWD NVG149 transfer case. I will leave the coupler on the passenger shaft engaged all the time and with a locker run open differential all the time I am driving. When I want to go fast in a straight line, lock the locker unit in and step on the gas. I will disengage it before turning at the end of a run.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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I'm interested to see if you get something to work. I looked into this about 2 years ago when I first did the d-max swap and everything I read said the 9.25 would not fit without serious modifications and fabrication.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Gadgetized
I will be running an AWD NVG149 transfer case. I will leave the coupler on the passenger shaft engaged all the time and with a locker run open differential all the time I am driving. When I want to go fast in a straight line, lock the locker unit in and step on the gas. I will disengage it before turning at the end of a run.
How exactly will you leave the passenger shaft engaged?
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by pezboy
How exactly will you leave the passenger shaft engaged?
Engage 4wd and then unplug the motor/solenoid or whatever engages the passenger shaft.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by thunder550
I'm interested to see if you get something to work. I looked into this about 2 years ago when I first did the d-max swap and everything I read said the 9.25 would not fit without serious modifications and fabrication.
I might very well run into these problems. I am assuming I will have to trim down the bottom of the oil pan, and remove material from the housing at minimum. I really want it tucked up in so that the CV's shafts are a straight line under acceleration.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 12:46 PM
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Do you think the wider diff will cause a problem with the suspension geometries?
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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I am not certain on that. I think the simplest solution would be to shim the hub out .250 on each side. I could cut some off of the mating surfaces too, but I really want to leave the CV shafts completely stock in case I break one. I would just rather replace it than have to make a custom part.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 01:34 PM
  #29  
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Really curious to see if you gain anything by this swap. Its a little heavier than the 8.25" one, and probably a littler higher parasitic loss. Maybe mine is a factory freak, but ive beat it like a redheaded step child and not had a single problem breaking anything. The saving grace might be because it is open and as soon as you lock it stress will go through the roof which brings me back to my first question.

The 8.25" gets a bad rep because its small and aluminum housing, but I havent seen many broken that arent stupid with them. Engage 4wd before going fast, dont shift out during, keep cvs flat, etc.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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Good info there, thanks for chiming in. Your truck was the reason I have decided to actually go AWD/4wd.
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