GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Driveshaft Loop

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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 11:59 PM
  #11  
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Is a rear really necessary? I could see if it fails in the front but in the back it'd just drag wouldn't it?
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 12:06 AM
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No telling what it would do, depending on what rpm it lets go.. If it is high rpm, I am sure it could still flop around enough to **** the tank and other things up. I did the rear one for piece of mind
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 12:09 AM
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Makes sense. I was thinking of just catastrophic circumstances, but I'd probably throw a rear on now that you mention it.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 12:14 AM
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I remember years ago when one of the techs at the Chevy dealer forgot to tighten the u-joint straps after reinstalling the rear driveline. It was on a company vehicle for a local construction company. The kid who picked it up was heading back towards Eagle River, and only got about 4-5 miles away from the dealership when the driveline ejected. We had it towed back, and found the driveline bent, muffler caved in, and transfer case tailhousing cracked. The gas tank had some really cool marks in it, scratches & gouges, but it was all superficial and the tank was still good.

What an expensive **** up that was....... The service manager was pissed!
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc
The rear would have to be welded on not bolted on atleast the way i ahve mine.. The fron set I will ponder up a price..
i might be interested in a set as well. seems like good insurance especially on a crew cab...
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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I'd be interested too!
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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Also interested..
Any idea how much that thing weighs john?
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 06Sierra2
i might be interested in a set as well. seems like good insurance especially on a crew cab...
Originally Posted by scooter k
I'd be interested too!
Originally Posted by skolman91
Also interested..
Any idea how much that thing weighs john?
I am not usre if it will work on a NNBS truck.. I know on the NBS trucks that there are them holes to bolt this to.. So on the other trucks if they changed the frame the holes might not be there, you might be drilling holes to ,mount this... As far as weight.. maybe 20 lbs..
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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just for insurance is nice but remember for track rules (if you slicks), I believe you need one no more than 8" from the output of the trans. The tracks don't care how much damage you make to the underside as long as you don't catapult.

A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks. With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.
I've been at some tracks when they consider drag radials as a loop requirement.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc
Here is the loop I made up, so they would be similar to this.. IIRC there is 2 holes on each side of the frame rails that this is bolted to( been a little while since I been under the truck)










I also have one in the rear, but it is welded to the frame of the truck.. The fuel tank was a issue for me also...

let me know if your serious..
I definitely want one so when you are ready let us all know.

On mine I will take some pics because in the front I already had a bar going from one frame rail to the other so I would just need the loop and mounting legs.

And on the rear I also have a cross member but it is above the driveshaft so I would need a loop just like the front and just install it upside down with the legs up. That what she said, lol.

Originally Posted by CHILLLLLL
Is a rear really necessary? I could see if it fails in the front but in the back it'd just drag wouldn't it?
I think the rear is as important because if it flops around it will take out your fuel tank and may even cause a fire if it leaks fuel on your hot exhaust.

Originally Posted by dewmanshu
just for insurance is nice but remember for track rules (if you slicks), I believe you need one no more than 8" from the output of the trans. The tracks don't care how much damage you make to the underside as long as you don't catapult.



I've been at some tracks when they consider drag radials as a loop requirement.
Yeh, my track ragged on me the last time I went for running DR's without a DS loop.
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