GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

circle d 3k getting warm

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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #31  
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@ Chris- I agree about 180* being kinda scary...I am going to disassemble the thermal bypass once iths out of my tahoe and see if it can be modded in any way to lower the temp. at which it fully opens.
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 02Reaper
I would go through the radiator first. That is where the majority of the heat dissipation takes place.
Agreed 100%, what cools a cherry hot peice of steel quicker? Plunging it into a water vat, or allowing it to air cool?

Always run the trans fluid through the rad.

peace
Hog
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #33  
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For anyone curious, as I was, if their 40k TruCool has the bypass or not, I found this chart:


Last edited by TX Tahoe Z71; Jun 16, 2011 at 10:38 AM.
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 01:07 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by hog
Agreed 100%, what cools a cherry hot peice of steel quicker? Plunging it into a water vat, or allowing it to air cool?

Always run the trans fluid through the rad.

peace
Hog
What if the water vat was 200 degrees Fahrenheit
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 05:29 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 00ChevyScott
What if the water vat was 200 degrees Fahrenheit
yep. bypass the rad.
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 02:18 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by hog
Agreed 100%, what cools a cherry hot peice of steel quicker? Plunging it into a water vat, or allowing it to air cool?

Always run the trans fluid through the rad.

peace
Hog
My trans runs at 150 during the summer why would I run it through radiator through HOTTER water to "cool" it down? Also with built transmissions with higher line pressure, the chance of busting the end tank goes up exponentially and can take out your transmission. So why risk it for no benefit?
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 03:33 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
My trans runs at 150 during the summer why would I run it through radiator through HOTTER water to "cool" it down? Also with built transmissions with higher line pressure, the chance of busting the end tank goes up exponentially and can take out your transmission. So why risk it for no benefit?
I need to get mine up to temp in the winter, if I bypassed the rad that would take for ever if at all. I must say though, my trans temps are consistent all year round, right about at 160* with a TruCool 40k and 258mm converter.
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