caltrac pics
10-31-2006, 01:38 PM
#1
caltrac pics
they were prety easy to install. took less than 2 hours and that is with me swaping out the front bushing in my garage without a press. couple of tips
the front drivers leafspring bolt wont come out because it is too long and hits the gas tank. before you take off the bolt cut off most of the extra. i left a couple of threads past the nut. even with the bolt cut down it is still a little long. i used a flat pry bar to push the plastic gas tank back about 1/2" so the bolt would come out. i put the bolt back in from the other direction during reasembly.
it says to use a press to swap out the front bushing. that would probably be easier if you have a press but i dont. i used a ~3/8" drill bit and hogged out the rubber on the stock bushing. just work you way around the edges and move the bit at angles. it just takes a min or so. after you hog out some of the rubber it will pull apart prety easy. the sleve is left behind. i used a chisel and got under one side of the sleve beating on it till it fell out. after it was apart i beat the aluminum bushing with a block of wood and a large hammer
. whole process took less than 5 minutes.fit and finish is very nice on the parts. total weight is around 26lbs but since you replace the bottom plate holding the rear end in the total added weight is around 20lbs. they are tucked up prety nice. not low at all on my truck but they make a lower profile front hanger if you need one.
i dont know what these are going to do for me but the sy/ty guys like them. if nothing else they should get rid of my wheel hp. if i can get the same 60' but do it more smoothly i will be happy. who knows they might kick *** and get me into the 1.4x 60's.
i will report back after saturday on ow they work. they probably need some time and adjustments to get the most out of them so just one trip to the track i may not be able to get the most out of them.
10-31-2006, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by parish8
they were prety easy to install. took less than 2 hours and that is with me swaping out the front bushing in my garage without a press. couple of tips
the front drivers leafspring bolt wont come out because it is too long and hits the gas tank. before you take off the bolt cut off most of the extra. i left a couple of threads past the nut. even with the bolt cut down it is still a little long. i used a flat pry bar to push the plastic gas tank back about 1/2" so the bolt would come out. i put the bolt back in from the other direction during reasembly.
it says to use a press to swap out the front bushing. that would probably be easier if you have a press but i dont. i used a ~3/8" drill bit and hogged out the rubber on the stock bushing. just work you way around the edges and move the bit at angles. it just takes a min or so. after you hog out some of the rubber it will pull apart prety easy. the sleve is left behind. i used a chisel and got under one side of the sleve beating on it till it fell out. after it was apart i beat the aluminum bushing with a block of wood and a large hammer
. whole process took less than 5 minutes.fit and finish is very nice on the parts. total weight is around 26lbs but since you replace the bottom plate holding the rear end in the total added weight is around 20lbs. they are tucked up prety nice. not low at all on my truck but they make a lower profile front hanger if you need one.
i dont know what these are going to do for me but the sy/ty guys like them. if nothing else they should get rid of my wheel hp. if i can get the same 60' but do it more smoothly i will be happy. who knows they might kick *** and get me into the 1.4x 60's.
i will report back after saturday on ow they work. they probably need some time and adjustments to get the most out of them so just one trip to the track i may not be able to get the most out of them.
I ask because I have 2" rear shackles and stock hangers. I'm seeing that the overload spring is very close to the Caltrac bar. If your using stock shackles then I can see this being a problem for my Caltrac install.
I'm really not understanding why the McGaughy aftermarket hangers I have would be a problem by looking at your pics. I'm not sure If I will add the hangers, but if the Caltrac bar comes in contact with the overload spring, I will then need to add the hangers.
Are you saying that Calvert Racing offers lowering hangers that are designed to work with their Caltracs?
I guess this must have been recent. They didn't offer anything but the Caltracs when I ordered mine.
Let me know what you think before I attempt to install mine.
Thanks,
Jim
10-31-2006, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
The other thing you can do on the rear bushings is hit the rubber with a torch -- they burn right out
Jim
10-31-2006, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
Kind of messy that way isnt it??
Jim
Jim
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10-31-2006, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 12sec.5.3
Are you guys shure they will fit on the drop hangers? Are they adjustable so it doesn't ride so stiff? I'm thinkng of either getting these or just going the cheap way and getting some lakewoods.
Calvert Racing will modify your hangers personally (if you send them to them) to allow the Caltracs to work without interference. If they are already installed on your truck, I've heard that most guys just notch them a little where they would come in contact.
Maybe someone can post a pic of a modified hanger for the Caltracs.
I've seen them posted here before.
Also, yes they are adjustable. You can back all the way off them to allow a normal ride. If you take note of the pics above, look where the bar connects to the bracket at the hanger. You will see two holes that they can go into. I believe (dont quote me) the lower hole is for very hard launches, and the upper hole is for softer launches.
When at the track, I think you place more tension onto the right side Caltrac to try and eliminate the *** end from pitching over to the side.
Jim
Last edited by CHEVY6000VHO; 10-31-2006 at 07:20 PM.