Bump for you and in addition, What adverse effect would you have running the track preload on the street?

 

I believe it stiffens up the ride alot if you leave preload on them, not 100% sure on that as i havent got mine on yet..

 

on the street, mine are just touching. i have only been to the track once since i put em on, but the track prep was terrible, and i got nothing accomplished. i tried them cranked up a bit on the street. it still spins just as bad, and it stiffens it up quite a bit. they do keep my truck in a straight line, though, as before i would damn near change lanes sideways. lol

 

If you really do more country cruizen then drag stripin, I would not put them on. I lost alot of clearance with mine, and they make it ride like a wheat truck. You will have to cut and push out the rubber bushing and replace them with solid aluminium ones. You will feel every vibration in the back of the truck right to your butt. Other then looking cool, and improveing my 60ft times at the track, I havn't really cared for them. I never had a wheel hope problem and they did not improve street traction at all, not even alittle. The only place I could tell any improvement with them is on slicks at the strip.

 

They work great for a street truck and drag truck. They ride great, work well at the track (60') and reduce wheel hop to almost a minimum on the street.

I come from an offroad backround where you dial in suspension for high speeds so ride quality and performance is very important with me on my street truck. I wasn't a fan of the supplied aluminum bushing since this truck needs to articulate on the street so I added a poly bushing which I hadn't seen done before. The result is a smooth ride with a rear suspension that doesn't bind.

For preload 1/4-1/2 turns preload is normally a good starting point (driver in the vehicle). To much preload you run the risk of spinning off the line because the suspension won't squat and transfer weight. No pre-load leaves you open to axle wrap. Caltracs will NOT make you hook on the street, that's not what they are meant for.

CON: My only dislike while the fabrication is good the heims and metal are cheap mild steel. It would be nice if they offered a more premium option at least the heims.

 

Does anyone have pictures of how the plate fits on the bushing/spring? i want to make my own but want to do it right.
Thanks

 

Why didn't I think of that... I will take them over to engineering and get them measured and blueprinted, then post the results.

 

remember that part # for the bushing by chance? I have lowering leafs and the back end is already stiff enough, might go the bushing route..

 

For me, clearance is only an issue in the snow over 4". I have a huge problem w/. feelin every bump & vibration right to my butt tho. But Matt's option below might be the ticket for that.

Great info Matt.

I'd be to spent $350 or so, & not have stainless heims & quality metal. Some moly perhaps to save a few #'s.


Ditto on the bushing #. I'd say just check w/. Energy on a poly bushing tho Mike.

 

Well check this out. I got some Summit universal traction bars 28in long for $45. They ARE NOT for our trucks. I bolted them on infront of the axel on the leaf spring. The ride is stiffer. NO WHEEL HOP!!! My 60ft. went from 2.02 to 1.89. I had to cut the rubber stoppers alittle though. My truck is not a 11sec or anything like that. It goes 13s on the motor and deep 12s on spray. I don't spray out of the hole. I did not have the green backs for the Caltracks. So I rolled the dice on some cheap traction bars and won.

On the street it hooks alittle better. It goes stright now as well. Before I would spin 1,2,3 gear before it would hook. Now it spins 1 and 1/2 of second gear. So alittle better on the street.