Thanks for the update!

 

i would love to see the pictures of the install. Thanks for all the hard work you 2 have put into this!

 

Good news, y'all!! The bracket is in, and after some minor fiddling, things are working and seem to be A LOT more solid than the OEM effort. Richard (Atomic Performance) is currently mulling over a slight alternative in how the pedal is going to attach to the bracket so as to avoid said fiddling and fitting of things, but we are DEFINITELY moving in the right direction.

I'll attach some pictures to this post, but as I mentioned beforehand this bracket is so much stronger and better than the stock set-up. It's not even funny. It is such a confidence boost to having the truck be reliable and dependable around town.

On my short test drive, I throttled and shifted only moderately aggressive due to still being in my neighborhood and my truck being out of inspection and registration. Don't want to attract too much attention haha.

The clutch was engaging super close to the floor, too, but I really think that is due to my introducing air to the line from inverting and titling the master cylinder as I was uninstalling/reinstalling. I just flat wasn't paying attention to what I was doing. Doh! This weekend I plan on bleeding the system to hopefully move the engagement point back up to where it normally should be.

Thanks for the patience, guys!

::EDIT::
Oh, I forgot to mention. As you see the pedal and bracket on my work bench in the pictures, I actually have the bolt installed in the opposite direction than what is desired. I found that out the hard way by (again) not thinking ahead. Due to the restricted room up under the dash, you'll want the nut on the driver's side and the bolt head on the passenger's side of the bracket so that if you ever need to remove the pedal, in theory you shouldn't have to remove the bracket at the same time. In my process of installing and figuring things out, I did have to remove the bracket to flip the bolt around. Learn from my mistake!

 

It looks like to me that it might be possible to install this aftermarket replacement without removing the dash because the pedal can be separated easily from the bracket and you can probably rejoin the two easily in the truck. If that is true it would cut down on quite a bit of work. I hope it is true.

Atomic:
Since this bracket is metal are you recommending still installing the third upper bolt? If we can get away with just the two lower mounting points it would cut down on additional labor to install and remove the unit!

Also on your clutch engagement issues please let me know how you are going to fix it. Because I am having the exact same problem. I don't know if it is a bleeding problem or my slave/master is messed up. I have tried running fluid through the system and I have tried a mitty vac. But I have to pretty much bottom out the pedal to get it to shift while moving. Very annoying. Could use some help.

Can't wait to get my hands on a finished unit.

 

I have installed both the OEM version as well as this metal version without removing the dash. It isn't terribly hard but a bit tedious as you have to wiggle it up there just right.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed, what all parts of the dash have you had to remove? All I've had to take off is the dash "bezel" (pops on and off) as well as the driver side knee bolster (just a few screws and pops right off). Yes, seeing as how this design allows the pedal to come off independent of the bracket, it will make life much easier should one find oneself needing to only remove the pedal, but I have not found it overly difficult to install or uninstall the unit as a whole.

My personal take on the upper bolt is "Why not still use it?" I put two extensions on my 3/8" drive socket wrench and away she went. Bolting in the pedal is one of the easier parts of the install/uninstall in my opinion.

Regarding the clutch engagement point being so low, I've had this happen on my truck before, and bleeding the clutch solved the issue. I absolutely suspect that to be the current issue for my truck.

When I swapped out to the T-56, I installed a remote bleeder valve that has the handy function of being one-way. That way I can loosen it, attach a hose to fill a bottle, and start pumping the clutch pedal. I even accidentally drained the master way back when since I wasn't expecting it to move that volume of fluid so quickly and successfully bled it back to operation using the same method. I'm pretty positive I'd drive myself crazy if I didn't have that remote bleeder valve. I've had to bleed motorcycle clutches the "old school" way, and those alone about put me over the edge. I have a vacuum bleeder at my folks' shop and might try it that way if I can go grab it this week. I planned to put some time in the garage this weekend but other unfortunately priorities took charge.

Just my two cents...

 

When I did my install I had to remove the console, seats, quite a few small 7mm bolts up by the dash. dash pad, pillars, 13mm bolts by the door hinge. support bracket by the gas pedal. I think I remember half taking the column out. I was able to slide the whole dash back by a couple of inches and put the bracket into place. I think it was about 4-5 hours of work.

 

Man, that sucks! I also swapped in a full console and didn't have to mess with it either. Not sure if there are that many differences between a Yukon interior/firewall and a truck or not.

Well in any case, hopefully you'll find the new bracket easier to install either way you try to tackle it.

 

I would continue to install as many of the original bolts as you can since there is no real reason to leave them out. I have never installed one of these, or even messed with a manual truck, so the final call is up to you.

Here is an update that I think will be the final piece. I made another bracket of material I had on hand so I can show what the final piece will be. Instead of the 9/16" bolt I had to reduce it to a 12mm (still a grade 10.9) bolt to use some machine motor bushings that fit inside the factory pedal like the stock plastic bushings do. This takes up all the slack and allows the pedal to smoothly pivot without wearing on the bolt, and also lets you tighten the bracket down to take out all of the lateral slack.

I sent a replacement bolt and bushings to Pathfinder and he should have them by the end of this week to install.

I have this one taking up space in my garage if someone else wants it. It will be $300 shipped to the lower 48.

 

I will take the bracket. I PM'ed you to get the payment info (email address, paypal or whatever you need to get the cash)

 

I'll need one too but I'm not in a hurry right at this time. I'll also probably order some engine mounts too......and eventually the coil over setup for the front once i figure out how to ditch the leaf springs on the back.