jakebdb56

iTrader: (24)

you can get a spool for one from what I've seen (I used to have the same rearend in my last truck). the brakes should be drum, and they're 14" drums if I remember correctly. 15" rims might fit, 16's do for sure. you can always get a custom yolk
the easiest way to identify one is the shape of the input on the differential housing. its kinda hard to describe, I'll see if I still have some pix of mine.

jake

James B.

iTrader: (1)

Those drums will be JB6 11" dual-action units.
This is a 9.5" housing. It is asymetrical, unlike the 8.6" housing.

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

My 93 donor 14 bolt is NOT asymetrical. One shaft is like 33" and hte other is like 36" or some thing like that, its been a while since I measured the axle shafts.

litreddevil

iTrader: (4)

we builded a bar for a friends truck that had some big *** u bolts on each side and it sat on the rear ta cover and u bolted to the housing from the back to keep it straight it seem to work perty good

bud8fan

iTrader: (9)

do you have a pic of this bar ...perhaps a drawing or sketch....

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i went to the junkyard. the 9.5" 12bolt(14bolt cover) is about 1/2" narrower than what is stock in my truck. the spring perches are 1.5" closer together. the hub center is the same diameter. the drum was 13" outside diameter wich might be close to a 15" rim but there is a lot of materal that could be removed if needed.

i called toms diff and asked a few questions. they sell any locker or posi you might want and the prices are about the same as for the 10bolt. he told me axles are avaliable for them. stock axles are 33 spline so they might be pleanty strong. the rear end is a c-clip design and as far as he knows no one offers c-clip eliminator kit.

the junk yards asking price was $450. probably get it for $400. the drums were all scalely so add in drums and shoes. better add in $500 for a posi with install kit. i can move the perches and shock mounts.

i think it could be done for just a little over $1000. should be stronger and hold 15" rims as well as stock style rims. they come in 3.42 and 3.73 from the factory. probably need a u joint and adjust the driveshaft length. it might have a 1350yolk in it, it looked prety big.

questions....

anyone know the yolk size? if not a 1350 do they sell a 1350 yolk for it?

what are the issues when switching from disk to drum brakes? i am beting i would need an ajustable proportioning valve and thats about it.

what issues might i run into that i am not thinking of?


i would love to slap on a set of 315/65/15 mt drag radials or whatever there big size is. it is almost 30" tall and i think 11" of tread.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

Well, that's what asymetrical means. So, yes yours IS. Both the 9.5" and 10.5" are asymetrical. The two sides are not the same.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

It can be a 3R like the 10-bolt or a 1350. The 1350 yokes are available.

BADMOFO

I wouldn't want to invest $1000 in a rear and still not have chromoly axles and still have to rely on the C-clip. I'd rather get a 9" Ford, IF I were making the kind of power you guys are. The standard 12 bolt Chevrolet has a 8.75" ring gear, as opposed to the 9" Ford's 9 inch ring gear. Either way, I'd put the Ford ends on either of them as C-clip eliminators ALWAYS leak. That's what's nice about ordering a rear from Moser. You tell them the length and where you want the spring perches, and it shows up ready to bolt in. I used one of their 9" bolt in's in my old G-Body (factory 4 link set-up) and it work flawlessly. By the time you figure on $150 for a good girdled cover, and $150 for C-clip eliminators, the 9" winds up being cheaper than say a 12 bolt GM in the long run. It made my decision easy.

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Yup Im an idiot, I misread his post, Im not a moron honest.