GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 12:00 AM
  #21  
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Think some thick wall tubing wwelded from the housing to the axle tubed on each side top and bottom would help? I can construct somehting with my 10 bolt. I will be taking the hole axle out to do my gear and diff. install because anyways I have to notch the fram for the 4/6 drop. I was thinking som thick wall 1" tubing would be more than enough.



Something like this. Tubes on the top and bottom and one across. I can have some bolts welded to the dif. cover and axles to make the center bar removable for service.
I will probably do this for my own truck. I can weld up some more if anyone is interested.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 01:57 AM
  #22  
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GM sells a housing that fits. I used the housing from a 1500 Crewcab that had a JH6 disc brake option. The axles were custom made to fit my 6 lug wheels, and I'm having moser fix a set of 1500HD rotors (redrilling to 6x5.5). For calipers, I'm using GM two pistons.

TA makes a girdle for it now too.

I think this set up should work fine for you too.

The housing is 12471325 but be ready for wallet shock. I thought I had the caliper, caliper anchors and disc flange pns right here, but don't seem to have them anymore...
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 03:47 AM
  #23  
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The machining for the billet caps I believe has to do with their width. Take a look at where your caps meet the housing I believe it just has a small machined surface and it has to be enlarged. Im not really sure to be honest.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 06:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by quicksilverado
For those with turbos, the lower geared rear gear ratios are stronger since there are fewer teeth on the ring and pinion. As a result they are thicker.
yep..thats why im keeping my 3:08's in there for right now...
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 01:21 PM
  #25  
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deck you need to quit messing around on the internets and install those 3.42s so we can get it on the dyno..

And yes.. it ripped hard out of hole..
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 07:52 PM
  #26  
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Strange http://www.strangeengineering.net/
Currie http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/grappler.aspx
Moser http://www.moserengineering.com/index.html

I'd CALL one of them and discuss options. You don't have to buy anything, and I'm sure you'll have some different ideas than before you called.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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The first sign that your housing is flexing is leaking oil. This is from the cover bolts walking themselves out as the housing distorts. The bolts come lose and the fluid leaks.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #28  
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If you want to keep the housing from flexing, bolt a half inch thick "diff-ring" between the housing and the diff cover, or bolt the diff cover between it and the housing.

You could also run alloy shafts as mentioned to strenghten the the 10 bolt even more.

As I told 1slow01Z71, the best bang for the buck would be to source a 14 SF 6 lug from an 88-98 half ton Z71, or from an 88-98 3/4 ton 6 lug van. They are the correct width, and will bolt in once the spring perches are relocated.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #29  
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where can you get a diff-ring?
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by axisT6
As I told 1slow01Z71, the best bang for the buck would be to source a 14 SF 6 lug from an 88-98 half ton Z71, or from an 88-98 3/4 ton 6 lug van. They are the correct width, and will bolt in once the spring perches are relocated.
this seems like a good way to go. do all 88-98 z71's have that rear end? if not how do you reconize one? has anyone tried this yet? what kind of brakes are on this rear(15" rims should fit right?), can you get a 1350 yolk for it? what is the stock style posi in one of these? can you get a spool for one?
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