99-07 4WD Front Coilover Conversion
Apr 29, 2016 | 09:46 AM
#232
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: La Crescenta, CA
Yes, DS303 with 1100lb springs.
Ride height measured from middle of top and bottom bolts. Upgraded bearings used.
Shakes the truck as in it felt like the shock/spring was replace with a solid piece of metal. Just very very harsh with the 22s. This was with the shock setting at 12-15.
6 seems to be perfect as it doesn't bounce and it's not *too* stiff most of the time.
How much longer of a shock could I use if I went with the stud top mount? I'd like to run a shock that would allow me a 800-900lb spring, and I'm pretty sure I'd have to run the DS501 for that...
Ride height measured from middle of top and bottom bolts. Upgraded bearings used.
Shakes the truck as in it felt like the shock/spring was replace with a solid piece of metal. Just very very harsh with the 22s. This was with the shock setting at 12-15.
6 seems to be perfect as it doesn't bounce and it's not *too* stiff most of the time.
How much longer of a shock could I use if I went with the stud top mount? I'd like to run a shock that would allow me a 800-900lb spring, and I'm pretty sure I'd have to run the DS501 for that...
I avoid anything that looks like a bump in the road because it shakes the hell out of the truck. I'm on a DS301 setup with a 1300lb spring. I feel it is way to stiff. Thinking of coming down to at least 1100lb, possibly more. Looking for some sort of formula to follow though.
Same shock settings here too. Somewhere around 5-6 in the front and two clicks more in the rear. I've tried numerous combos of settings and around this is the best, which sucks, with the 1300lb spring.
I'm also looking at going back up to stock height, so a DS303 setup, if I remember right, to increase some shock travel some. Not looking forward to eating the hundreds of dollars in cost again to do so however.
Also, anybody using this kit having issues with their turning radius? I definitely lost a bunch after the swap and have had the truck laser aligned twice now thinking it was that.
Apr 29, 2016 | 10:34 AM
#233
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
From what I have seen, any time that someone says the ride sucks or it shakes it means the shock is not set up properly in the middle of its travel or the bumpstop is not installed. I have a feeling yours is too low based on what you described, I bet if you raised it up an inch with more preload you would be much happier with it. The other option is to use the stud top and a longer shock, although you could try to the stud top right now and see what you think.
Just by itself the stud top will drop the front end 1.5" (0.75" at the shock) with no other changes. You can use the spreadsheet I posted to figure out exactly what spring and shock combo would be for a given ride height, but again it is very important to set the shock up in the middle of its travel and make sure the bump stop is installed regardless of what ride height that it.
So a couple questions,
1.) do you have the bumpstop installed properly?
2.) Are you looking to raise the height back up some?
3.) Is your shock in the middle or slightly above its median ride height?
If 1 and 2 are yes then add some preload to the spring to raise it so its higher. I know on mine with the same setup there is 3-4 threads showing below the jam nut and I have none of the issues you are describing. The PDF in the first post talks at length on how to properly set up the shock/spring and bumpstop.
Just by itself the stud top will drop the front end 1.5" (0.75" at the shock) with no other changes. You can use the spreadsheet I posted to figure out exactly what spring and shock combo would be for a given ride height, but again it is very important to set the shock up in the middle of its travel and make sure the bump stop is installed regardless of what ride height that it.
So a couple questions,
1.) do you have the bumpstop installed properly?
2.) Are you looking to raise the height back up some?
3.) Is your shock in the middle or slightly above its median ride height?
If 1 and 2 are yes then add some preload to the spring to raise it so its higher. I know on mine with the same setup there is 3-4 threads showing below the jam nut and I have none of the issues you are describing. The PDF in the first post talks at length on how to properly set up the shock/spring and bumpstop.
Apr 29, 2016 | 02:58 PM
#234
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: La Crescenta, CA
From what I have seen, any time that someone says the ride sucks or it shakes it means the shock is not set up properly in the middle of its travel or the bumpstop is not installed. I have a feeling yours is too low based on what you described, I bet if you raised it up an inch with more preload you would be much happier with it. The other option is to use the stud top and a longer shock, although you could try to the stud top right now and see what you think.
Just by itself the stud top will drop the front end 1.5" (0.75" at the shock) with no other changes. You can use the spreadsheet I posted to figure out exactly what spring and shock combo would be for a given ride height, but again it is very important to set the shock up in the middle of its travel and make sure the bump stop is installed regardless of what ride height that it.
So a couple questions,
1.) do you have the bumpstop installed properly?
2.) Are you looking to raise the height back up some?
3.) Is your shock in the middle or slightly above its median ride height?
If 1 and 2 are yes then add some preload to the spring to raise it so its higher. I know on mine with the same setup there is 3-4 threads showing below the jam nut and I have none of the issues you are describing. The PDF in the first post talks at length on how to properly set up the shock/spring and bumpstop.
Just by itself the stud top will drop the front end 1.5" (0.75" at the shock) with no other changes. You can use the spreadsheet I posted to figure out exactly what spring and shock combo would be for a given ride height, but again it is very important to set the shock up in the middle of its travel and make sure the bump stop is installed regardless of what ride height that it.
So a couple questions,
1.) do you have the bumpstop installed properly?
2.) Are you looking to raise the height back up some?
3.) Is your shock in the middle or slightly above its median ride height?
If 1 and 2 are yes then add some preload to the spring to raise it so its higher. I know on mine with the same setup there is 3-4 threads showing below the jam nut and I have none of the issues you are describing. The PDF in the first post talks at length on how to properly set up the shock/spring and bumpstop.
Any thought on the lost turning radius? I have to take a different route to work now because the truck won't make a hairpin turn on the route I usually take.
Also, when I did the conversion I also ordered QA1's replacement shocks for the rear. Seemed to help out quite a bit however I noticed what appears to be fluid already leaking out of one. Not real happy so far with QA1's quality for the money.
Apr 30, 2016 | 07:13 PM
#235
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Richard, my apologies for taking so long to get back to this thread. I'll post pictures in the next few days of the setup. I'm positive everything is set-up correctly.
Are the bushings available from you for the stud mount tops? I'd like to explore that option before going with a longer shock.
Are the bushings available from you for the stud mount tops? I'd like to explore that option before going with a longer shock.
Apr 30, 2016 | 10:42 PM
#236
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Hey Richard, yes to all questions and I followed your instructions to a "T". I really feel its the spring rate. I know when we spoke we figured this would be a somewhat "stiffer" ride for towing, etc., however it feels as if I'm riding in a 12" all leaf spring lifted truck on 28" tall tires.
Any thought on the lost turning radius? I have to take a different route to work now because the truck won't make a hairpin turn on the route I usually take.
Also, when I did the conversion I also ordered QA1's replacement shocks for the rear. Seemed to help out quite a bit however I noticed what appears to be fluid already leaking out of one. Not real happy so far with QA1's quality for the money.
Any thought on the lost turning radius? I have to take a different route to work now because the truck won't make a hairpin turn on the route I usually take.
Also, when I did the conversion I also ordered QA1's replacement shocks for the rear. Seemed to help out quite a bit however I noticed what appears to be fluid already leaking out of one. Not real happy so far with QA1's quality for the money.
Not sure what to say about the turning radius, I havent heard that one before. Do you have drop spindles? Those generally impact the turning radius.
Richard, my apologies for taking so long to get back to this thread. I'll post pictures in the next few days of the setup. I'm positive everything is set-up correctly.
Are the bushings available from you for the stud mount tops? I'd like to explore that option before going with a longer shock.
Are the bushings available from you for the stud mount tops? I'd like to explore that option before going with a longer shock.
May 25, 2016 | 08:36 PM
#237
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Creedmoor, NC
I may have missed it but, is anyone using aftermarket upper control arms with coilovers?
My upper control arm bushings are trashed and I'm considering trying a set of complete arms. Better ball joint angles, new ball joints, new bushings...ect.
My upper control arm bushings are trashed and I'm considering trying a set of complete arms. Better ball joint angles, new ball joints, new bushings...ect.
