GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

8 lug to 6 lug

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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #11  
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Ok cool. I knew the 88-98 semi floats were a little narrower. Didn't realize the nbs 8 lug rears were a little narrower too.
I'm cool with that. Actually works out a little better for me anyhow.
The brake issue I was aware of and I'm not worried about.
Thank you for your help. It's much appreciated.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:07 PM
  #12  
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No Problem! Good luck.

Feel free to post up your project.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:08 PM
  #13  
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why not just find a 9.5 that is direct bolt in?

2 of my trucks have direct bolt in 9.5 14 bolts

2002 chassis and a 2010 truck
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ScreamingL
why not just find a 9.5 that is direct bolt in?

2 of my trucks have direct bolt in 9.5 14 bolts

2002 chassis and a 2010 truck
The rear end he has is a direct bolt in. However they only came with 8 lugs. You can use the OBS 4x4 axles though. The brakes is a whole nother issue...

The AXN optioned 14 bolt is a direct plug and play though as you mentioned. But it has weaker axles and uses the same axle bearings as the 10 bolt. A few SS trucks have snapped the factory shafts.

I had Dutchman make me a set of axles that are stronger for my AXN optioned rear end.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:29 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
The rear end he has is a direct bolt in. However they only came with 8 lugs. You can use the OBS 4x4 axles though. The brakes is a whole nother issue...

The AXN optioned 14 bolt is a direct plug and play though as you mentioned. But it has weaker axles and uses the same axle bearings as the 10 bolt. A few SS trucks have snapped the factory shafts.

I had Dutchman make me a set of axles that are stronger for my AXN optioned rear end.
ive ran the 14bolt out of a SSS with over 800 rwhp with a T56 on slicks for a few yrs now
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ScreamingL
ive ran the 14bolt out of a SSS with over 800 rwhp with a T56 on slicks for a few yrs now
Wheel Hop is usually the killer. I would be curious to put an alignment bar in yours and see how straight the housing is.

I have seen a few Crew Cabs bend them though as well as trucks that are wrecked.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 06:06 PM
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I'm most likely picking up a whole running driving 2001 2500hd for cheap. Want the 4l80e and the hd t case. For a couple hundred extra bucks over what the yards want for cores I can get the whole truck. If I can make the rear work too it saves me from buying another one from the yard.
Building on somewhat of a budget and working with what I have

I'll post up a build thread when I start and it's not just a pile of parts. It's the truck in my sig. Getting the aforementioned driveline, a new non New England frame (mines Swiss cheese), some suspension changes (4 link rear and coilovers all around), a pair of twin 70mm turbos, and if there's enough left in the budget a 408 lol. If not the twins will go on the lq4 for the season and I'll keep the boost down.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 06:26 PM
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From: JunkYard
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A 2001 HD gas truck will most likely have a 10.5 floater in it.

You would need a non HD 2500 or a 1500HD with a 6.0.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 06:40 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
A 2001 HD gas truck will most likely have a 10.5 floater in it.

You would need a non HD 2500 or a 1500HD with a 6.0.
thats what i was getting at, his posts lead to a FF 14 bolt 10.5"
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 06:41 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Wheel Hop is usually the killer. I would be curious to put an alignment bar in yours and see how straight the housing is.

I have seen a few Crew Cabs bend them though as well as trucks that are wrecked.
no wheel hop here and just tossed a 2011 9.5" in my lifted crew on 35s i just built with trutrac and 488s

my rear in the 02 chassis has welded tubes since 2008, ive pulled axles numberous times and inspected them to be straight minus twisting of splines
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