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6L80E Whining after replacing valve body check balls

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Old 06-01-2022, 08:11 PM
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Default 6L80E Whining after replacing valve body check *****

Hey folks, my 2010 5.3 with the 6L80E had no forward motion so I dropped the pan and pulled the valve body. Sure enough, #1 check ball had blown through the separator plate. I replaced the 7 check ***** and added the 8th, replaced separator plate and reinstalled everything.
This morning I filled the ATF and went to fire it up, but the line was missing from under the PRNDM gear selector. Great. Fiddled with the TEHCM connector until it was in properly and the line came back, fired the truck up, and EEEEEEE god awful whine. I freaked out killed it immediately and double checked TEHCM connector, unplugging and reindexing it, and fired it again with the camera on, same thing loud high pitch whine like a hammer drill. Video link below. Anybody seen this before or have any ideas?

Old 06-01-2022, 11:47 PM
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Sounds like the starter gear is staying engaged
Old 06-02-2022, 06:46 AM
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did you forget the filter?

if not...you're probably 3 qts low on fluid
Old 06-02-2022, 09:44 AM
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Filter is definitely in, I put in just over 5 qts after resealing the pan, fluid level is between hot and cold on the stick. The valve body was dry since I split the halves, but this sounds like the pump or some other rotating part/line blockage to me. I'm like 90% confident I reassembled everything correctly as far as valve body and TEHCM, but the only other thing I can think of is if I screwed something up by jacking the back of the trans up to clear the pan over the Y pipe.


Old 06-02-2022, 10:01 AM
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fluid is cheap

dump 2 or 3 qts in and if your noise goes away...you'll know it's just the pump whining as it struggles to get suction
Old 06-02-2022, 07:56 PM
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Good news is I found the issue, bad news I’m pretty sure she’s f&$ked. Looks like the valve body seals were dislodged during installation, and they cracked the trans casting when I tightened the valve body down, which in turn caused the clutch basket (probably not the right term) to rub on the cracked casting. Bunch of metal shavings sitting on top of the valve body.
so essentially my dumb *** turned a $100 repair into needing a new trans.
Not sure how the seals managed to walk out that far… I verified that they were in place and I even had to put the valve body up twice because I forgot to put in the bolt above the y pipe the first time, and the seals were still in place. I guess when I put the valve body up the second time I knocked them out of place, but I still feel like there should’ve been some indication while tightening valve body bolts. All the bolts went to torque spec no problem, no added resistance or anything. Excuse me while I go drink a 12 pack




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