chris092183

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that was fast! Thanks Corey. Can you explain the benefits of this? If I do this mod will any other parts that work in conjunction need to be upgraded? Thanks again man.

Also I can't seem to find the thicker snap ring supplied with the transgo kit. Does anybody know of a part number for this snap ring? not for transgo though. I don't think they will sell it separately and I will be making a trip to the trans parts supplier anyhow.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

On my 2003 unit, I noticed pretty substantial grooves where the center support rides in the direct clutch. I am assuming this happened because the bushing inside of the center support was way worn. The fluid passages were gone towards the front of the center support. What would cause this? Could this have been because of my mistake of installing the rear 60e cooler line fitting or maybe the shafts were oscillating for some reason? Would the worn down bushing be the reason my trans was slipping?

Jake's Performance

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Wonder where Vince learned that neat little trick?

The TransGo kit dual feed through the plate so leaving the seals out is not necessary and they would tell you not to.
I would leave the seals out, go back to a stock valve body and separator plate with the feed holes drilled.
You can leave the transgo springs on the direct drum and drill a .050" hole in the edge of the drum to prevent centrifugal apply.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

So should I use everything in the hd2 kit except for the valve body plate? I'm assuming you say not too use the transgo plate because of the triple stack plate cross leak problem. If i go this route do i still "relief assembly cover" mod to the valve body (stes 1, 4, 5 on the transgo manual)


What do you think about this?
There are the tabs that look to be machined down on opposite sides and in the 4th clutch housing, there is a groove in one of the tabs. is there a special sequence that these steels need to go or can the steels be stacked any way? It seems that the groove in the 4th clutch might be there as a fluid passage?

Thanks!

Jake's Performance

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I highly recommend NOT doing the pressure relief mod.

I can't picture what you are saying about the 4th clutch housing, but the steels will only fit one way, there is one "tooth" that is a different size than the others and it must go into the corresponding notch in the housing.

You can plug the pressure relief hole in the VB with a set screw and Loc-tite.
Keep the TransGo pressure regulator spring and boost valve.

BlackGMC

iTrader: (31)

Here is a pic of what Jake is talking about, those steels only go 1 way...




I did not use the transgo relief thingy... I went with a Sonnax self regulating boost valve instead...

chris092183

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What I am talking about is the steels not just for the 4th clutch but also the direct and forward clutches. I can see for the 4th clutch that they can only be placed one way. There is a groove in each steel in only one of the tabs. On the direct and forward steels there are 4 tabs that are "angle cut" for lack of a better term. There are two tabs "angle cut" 180 degrees two tabs "angle cut". I am curious if these tabs need to be strategically placed within the drums or if I can just drop the steels in the drums however I like.

I apologize If I was being unclear when I first presented this problem or if I still am being unclear.

chris092183

iTrader: (1)

Jake:

Can you explain where exactly you are talking about drilling the edge of the drum here?

"You can leave the transgo springs on the direct drum and drill a .050" hole in the edge of the drum to prevent centrifugal apply."

"Keep the TransGo pressure regulator spring and boost valve."

How about the rest of the mods? Do I retain any other springs, sleeves, thicker intermediate snap ring? I already drilled the pump. No mods have been done to this valve body. I was going to remove the transgo kit from my old unit and put them into the unit I'm building.

Thanks fro the clarification Corey!

Does the transgo boost valve serve the same purpose as the Sonnax self regulating boost valve?

Jake's Performance

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You can install the rest of the steels without regard for the markings. The direct steels (.090" thick) and the .077 Forward steels are made that way so they are easily identifiable for thickness.

If the VB is unmodded, then leave it that way. Check it for wear, free movement of the valves. You will drill the feed holes in the separator plate, do the mods for dual feed, and that's it for a mild build.
The transGo boost valve is better material than the stock one. We replace the boost valve on every build, sometimes we don't use one at all

Jake's Performance

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