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4l80e rebuild for 2002 Yukon Swap, SLOWWWWW BUILD....

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Old 11-15-2015, 05:35 PM
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Trans is NOT out. Sigh.

What's done.

- xfer case out and 30 spline modded
- cross member bolts loosened and ready to drop
- exhaust y pipe unbolted and ready to drop
- trans NSS unplugged. Used a heat gun to warm up the gunk and plugs came out.
- shift linkage unhooked
- trans put into neutral
- trans cooler lines removed
- started moved out of way. **** the starter by the way. What a bitch.
- all torque converter to flywheel bolts removed
- trans oil tube disconnected
- all trans bellhousing bolts removed except top one until I lower the trans a bit. What a pain. Why are goddamn brackets attached and in the way of the hard to reach bolts?!!

I should have the 4l60e dropped tomorrow.

One issue I missed was my trans has no bolt holes for a 4l80e shift bracket. I think I'll find a way to hack the 4l60e bracket and attach like I did the NSS.

I wish I went with a newer 4l80e Ahhh well, it forced me to learn, which was my goal with all this.

No pics, too busy cussing under the truck
Old 11-15-2015, 05:37 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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Go ahead and leave out that top bolt when you reinstall, I havent used the top 3 bolts in years because they are so hard to get to. It may be easier to get to the top one from the engine bay.
Old 11-15-2015, 05:45 PM
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Theres definitely a learning curve and a few tricks to getting starter out..... Hell now i can have it out in about 5 minutes first one i did took 20-30 minutes each way!!! I usually disconnect the level sensor and the crabk sensor to free up the harness and kinda tilt the starter up as it cones out (after you unbolt the plastic cover fron the oil pan) and guide it through the harness and the ground goin to the side of the block and it sometimes takes a screwdriver to pry snout past bellhouing but it cones right out..... Late i know but....
Old 11-15-2015, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Go ahead and leave out that top bolt when you reinstall, I havent used the top 3 bolts in years because they are so hard to get to. It may be easier to get to the top one from the engine bay.
My 4l80e is so old there is no hole for the top bolt!!

Old 11-15-2015, 05:46 PM
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Top bolt is not bad with a 3/8 drive swivel socket on a long *** extension, leaving the bolts out can cause the bell to crack.... Seen it before!!!
Old 11-15-2015, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolftrk99
Theres definitely a learning curve and a few tricks to getting starter out..... Hell now i can have it out in about 5 minutes first one i did took 20-30 minutes each way!!! I usually disconnect the level sensor and the crabk sensor to free up the harness and kinda tilt the starter up as it cones out (after you unbolt the plastic cover fron the oil pan) and guide it through the harness and the ground goin to the side of the block and it sometimes takes a screwdriver to pry snout past bellhouing but it cones right out..... Late i know but....
This will help me get it reinstalled. Still, **** the starter.
Old 11-15-2015, 05:48 PM
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Question, how does the 4l60e main harness connector come off? Twist, squeeze?
Old 11-15-2015, 05:49 PM
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Squeeze and pull
Old 11-15-2015, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Go ahead and leave out that top bolt when you reinstall, I havent used the top 3 bolts in years because they are so hard to get to. It may be easier to get to the top one from the engine bay.
If your bellhousing survived 1000whp 4wd launches then this is fantastic and officially proven.
Old 11-16-2015, 03:13 PM
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Is it OK to test my new trans without driveshafts installed? Like to see it reverse an all that works?


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