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4L80e No reverse Repair list questions and any Advice?

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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 02:34 AM
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Default 4L80e No reverse Repair list questions and any Advice?

So I just had the truck tuned, first run up on the on-ramp of the freeway and on the 1-2 shift at WOT at close to 7K rpm the trans shifted into second gear just enough to chirp the tires and then "let go" like it was in neutral.

I thought the shift happened so hard that it could have physically bumped the shifter into neutral, so I shifted it into "3" and it went right into gear. Then at 55-60mph I casually shifted it into "D" and felt 4th gear engage and then I felt the TC lock. I thought everything was all good.

Till I got to the first stoplight. If I'm in "D" I have no first gear. I have 2,3 and 4th but no first. It acts like it wants to go but it feels like it slips and wont go anywhere. I Have to physically move the selector to "3" and it engages first gear just fine.

Then I got home, parked it and went inside and made a call to my tuner who verified it couldn't be tune related. I then went to go run some more errands and I went to my truck and GUESS what? No reverse either, it acts like it wants to move but just slips like first gear in "D".

So heres the rundown,
If I manually select 1,2 or 3 on the gear selector I have all forward gears.
If I am standing still and I am in "D" I have no first gear.
If I select reverse I have no reverse.
If I'm moving in "3" and bump the shifter to "D" I get 4th gear and TC lockup just fine.
I also get TC lockup just fine in "3" also.

Based on this thread its the overdrive roller clutch - 4L80E problems. Again. - LS1TECH

I have a transgo hd-2 kit in it and I drilled out the shift plate with the biggest drill bit on accident. I mis-read an email from my tuner and it was too late. I am planning on buying a new separator plate and using the medium drill bit to soften the shift.

So Parts list is for this repair:
A34650A - ROLLER CLUTCH OVERDRIVE 4L80E L01-UP (.195" DIAMETER ROLLER, 3.00" OD ROLLER CLUTCH) (BLUE INSERTS)

K34900-3 - 4L80E VALVE BODY GASKET SET (UPPER, LOWER and ACCUMULATOR )

A34747U - 4L80E/4L85E Separator Plate: Tempered steel for longer life. Plated for rust resistance. (Replaces all 91-09) Separator plates, between valve body and transmission case.

34310E - GASKET PUMP TO CASE 4L80E 91-UP

74311 - O-RING SEAL FRONT PUMP 4L80 91-UP / 700R4 82-UP

Anything else you guys would recommend to do or check while I have it apart?

Thanks,

Ken
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 10:41 AM
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How many miles on the trans?
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 12:12 PM
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12,000mi pretty squeaky clean when I installed the HD-2 kit
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 12:42 PM
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If something metallic Broke, the clutches will likely have contamination in them.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
If something metallic Broke, the clutches will likely have contamination in them.
Thats what I was going for.

I'd be going over eeeevery part in that trans and flushing as much as possible.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tgui
Thats what I was going for.

I'd be going over eeeevery part in that trans and flushing as much as possible.
Metal contamination will go everywhere.

It's usually embedded in the clutches and sometimes the seals too. Rough metal surfaces such as castings can appear clean but may have metal stuck to them.

IMO, I personally would tear it completely down and clean everything as well as replace the clutches. I would also send the Torque converter out for a cut and clean. There is no way to complete flush out the metal contamination. It will stick to the lock up clutch as well as in the stator inside the convertor. Also if the metal contamination got into the bearings in the convertor it can cause the torque convertor to fail later down the road. You will be back inside it in no time.

Make sure you go through the valve body as well as clean the solenoids too.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 01:56 PM
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Sorry but I don't like you guys very much right now - lol that is not what I wanted to hear.

I was planning to re-stall the converter, it's listed as a 3000 stall and I have trouble getting it to 2200rpm. So it'll get split and cleaned anyway.

Would it be safe to do that and keep an eye on the fluid for metal contamination? My thought is that if I'm gonna have to rebuild it, I might as well thrash this one and when it goes,get it fully built.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 02:02 PM
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The problem is usually once you see metal contamination in the fluid, it's already too late as it has probally already circulated through the system.
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 02:06 PM
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Your welcome to try anything you like, You may get lucky!
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 02:08 PM
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I know you guys are right. I'll crack it open and see what I got. Fluid on the stick it clean as a whistle.

If I see metal I will do as advised. If it's clean I'll probably just slap it back together and hope the filter sorts out the metal shavings.

But if I get into the trans I'll definitely be adding performance parts. Have any recommendations on what I should get to hold more powa?
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