no you would swap to an output shaft that is fully splined.

if you have a two piece drive shaft on your truck you could run a counter bored slip yoke. the first shaft does not move very much.(first part from trans to carrier bearing) most of the slipping. (in and out) is done from the shaft that connects the axle to the carrier bearing

 

both of my 4l80e are the same way i have not a problem .drive shaft slide in about 2 1/2 in

 

Sweet, what did you do for a yoke?

I want to do it right but also would prefer not to have to pull it out again as well!

 

use long 4l80e yolk and cut it down

 

You can get a counterbored yoke to fix the problem.

 

The yoke isnt supposed to fit all the way, it needs room to move when the rear suspension compresses. Most places recommend an inch at ride height.

 

My yoke is counterbored (you can see it in the second pic). My issue is that the splines in the yoke are contacting the output shaft. They cut off about an in. (more than I asked), but it didnt create any additional clearance because they just removed an in. of the non splined portion.
I can get the driveshaft in but there is only about 3/8in of clearance.

How do I create more room ebtween the yoke and the non splined portion of the output shaft?

 

oh I gotcha...looks like the whole shaft needs to be shortened some more...

 

You want the TH400 short yoke. As for the not being able to attach the shift lever. I'm guessing you had a 4l60e before the swap. You have to use only 1 bolt on the pan to hold it in place. (YOU have to use the original 4l60e shift cable bracket) You'll see what I'm talking about when tour maneuvering the cable/bracket. You have to move it one or two bolts more forward so everything lines up or else your trans won't fully engage into park. My 80e is a 95 van trans, so it had the bolt on yoke.

 

Thats what I was assuming. Did you just drill a new hole 1/4in or so further back on the bracket?