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4l65e new converter breaking pump stators

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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:25 PM
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Default 4l65e new converter breaking pump stators

Just got a new, higher stall converter on my 4l65e. It's good brand with about a 3200 stall. Since my install, I haven't even got 800 miles on it and it shatters my pump stator. It has happened twice now. Went back in with my trailblazer converter and works fine. I really like the way the other converter drives and I want to put it back in but not if it is gonna wipe out my pump again. Took converter back to builder and he said it looks fine and couldn't find anything wrong with it. What gives? Anyone have any idea what may be going on with this? I need somewhere to start looking and I haven't a clue why it is breaking them. Both times I was at a cruising speed and it just quits. No sound comes from it. I don't get it. Help me please. Thanks
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 03:15 PM
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Does the converter have proper flywheel clearance? Is the snout the same measurements as the TB converter?
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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Do you mean the length of the snout or the diameter? I did notice that the converter only engaged the pump a little more than half way into the notches in the convertor. Does it maybe need to be shimmed to engage more deeply into the notches? It's a circle d converter. Or could maybe I have a bent or cracked flywheel? Its on a 08 Sierra with 5.3. I was told by Chris at circle d that this was what I needed for my truck and man it sure woke it up. I really want to put it back in. Thanks for the reply. Again, both times it broke, I wasn't gassing on it, I was just holdin steady at highway speed and it didn't make any noise or anything. My motor just hit the limiter and it quit pulling. Really aggravating when you know the person and company that made it have sold many quality units and and I don't wanna believe that mine is any different but if cant find a reason for this problem, it ain't going back in. Thanks
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 08:42 PM
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Spacing is very critical on a 60e setup, more so than on any other trans I think. The hub on the converter was damaged fairly bad when you brought it in, so could not really see where the rotor was engaging. And when ever you have a rotor failure, it can damaged the converter hub and lead to another premature failure. I did check the run out before we cut it, and all is good. .003 - .004. So I did not find any reason for the failure. I think I mentioned this when you drooped it off, but a billet rotor is a good upgrade when you have had this many questionable rotor failures. We have a new unit ready to go for you and will send our normal shim set. Be very critical on converter clearance, .100-.125 is what we want to see. I tried to call you a few times, but seems like your voicemail is not working or full.

Chris
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Circle-D
.100-.125 is what we want to see.
Chris
I agree.
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 10:54 AM
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Also be sure the dowel pins in the block are in place and not messed up.
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake's Performance
Also be sure the dowel pins in the block are in place and not messed up.
Good point Jake.....something that simple can cause big headaches.

Chris
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 05:51 AM
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Everything else is in order. Dowel pins are in great shape. I am almost sure it was because of the gap between converter and flex plate. I was going to shim it at first but wasn't sure if I should or how much I needed to. Now, after this conversation, I will soon. Unfortunately Chris, I will be working in Miami the next few weeks and won't be able to get by there to get that replacement converter from you til I get back. I hope you don't mind holding it for me cause I wanna put it back in. I really did like how it worked in my truck. Thanks for your help guys, Brian
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 07:21 PM
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We can hold it, no problem.....

Chris
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