Wilde Racing...where are your torsion bars? They're not part of the removal process right?

 

I didn't touch mine.

 

I had to pull my torsion bars and all cross members for the transfer case and exhaust to clear. if you have had any exhaust work that changed the factory "y" pipe flange. (sp) then you may also need to do the same or cut the exhaust. torsion bars are really ease to pull if you have a two jaw puller. Luckliy my trans came right off the studs. I do have a few pics if that would help. Or can take a few.

 

I heard these were glued in

I just unbolted the whole plate from the side of the tranny

 

I did the samething after I almost broke mine trying to get them out.

 

It's a pretty straight forward process. Those electrical connectors are a royal PITA. Don't think I've seen anything online, but I recommend pick up a Haynes manual. They're not much and prove to be a quick reference for standard jobs like this. If you desire further detailed procedures and such, pick up a set of Helms manuals. They're great, especially when you need to find the part number of the connector on neutral/reverse locator.

While you're in there replace those cheesy stock flywheel bolts.

I'd recommend pulling the intake and stuff off. It makes it a whole lot easier to gain access to the upper bell housing bolts.

 

Wilde Racing, I bet a lot of us would like to see a write-up on your swap. I'm especially interested in the 4X4 part of it . . . Are you changing the input gear on the Autotrac case to the 32 spline input that Speed Eng. sells, or did you get someone to machine a 27 spline output shaft for the 4l80? I've been considering what to do when my 4l60 needs replacing, and my Autotrac case (which I intend to keep) is pretty much all that's keeping me away from the 4l80 transplant.

Thanks,
Kipp

 

Thanks a lot for all of the info, its going to help greatly when I go to do this!

 

Good advise.....those are not cheap

 

How long does swap take on one of these 2wd trucks with a lift.