A built 60E will be toast if you use happy gas above 70. The clutch packs just can't take it.

 

I am running a 130 shot with cam and stall right now. I will move it up to 150-175 after the 80. Should make for a good time. Still running 3.42 rear. I'll change to 3.73,3.90, or 4.10. Haven't decided yet. My buddy runs a 3.73 with his 80 swap. I think I want a little more gear than that.

 

You still have a power loss in the trans power feed, probably pissed off by the cam swap. The trans B+ wire is inside the harness from the fuse box, top of the engine, then down to the trans. There was a TSB for this problem, and if memory serves, the power wire is orange. I used to just break open the harness and string a new wire from the fuse box connector to the trans connector using the correct GM terminals. If there is fluid in the trans connector (round), the trans harness needs to be replaced too, as was earlier posted.

The bearings in the pan are most likely from the trans suddenly defaulting to third gear when the solenoids lost power and exhausted pressure. The clutch dust in the pan is what's left of the 3/4 clutch pack after a full line 1-3 or badly timed 2-3 shift. That's also why you have an engine flare on the 2-3 shift now.

 

thanks for the info Brian68. My friend pinned the harness for me and said everything was good, but I'll go back and check that wire. That makes a lot of sense and I dont wana put this new trans in and have the same issue.

Do you think those roller pins/bearings are from something in the trans or converter? I'm leaning towards converter bc I don't know of anything in the trans that they could have come from, but I could be wrong.

 

The parts look like a torrington bearing. What's the story on this converter? Seeing as that's what was replaced that's what is suspect. The converter has a sprag (one way clutch) in it that will inhibit movement if it fails. You have line pressure so I would lean toward the converter.

One other thing to consider - if the converter did fail it will always dump a bunch of trash through your cooler lines. That entire circuit will need to be reverse-flushed if this is the case.

 

The converter is a brand new fti street brawler 3200...I probably have 50 miles on it since the install.

I'm contemplating blowing out the lines and putting the stock converter back for now just to see if/how it drives. Maybe all the material is all from the converter and the trans is ok, but I have the solenoid codes so I'm gonna check on that wire in the harness like Brian recommended.

 

The converter is most likely fine. A failed stator clutch wouldn't allow you to drive normally like you are for 300 +/- yards, whether it freewheels or is locked. The clutch part could be worn, but again, your trans is shifting normally until you need third gear then the RPM flares. Right? My guess is the bearing rollers are from the input carrier or the reaction internal gear, since some of the bearings look a little munched on. The roller bearings in the converter would have to go through a bushing or shuttle valve to get to the pan. Something else would have been painfully obvious for that to happen. I won't say it's impossible though.

 

I have reconsidered the 60e options and I am strongly considering ditching the 60e all together and swapping in a nv4500. found one complete with 100k miles including shifter for $700 out of a 04 3/4 ton with a 6.0 (maybe I should get the 6.0 too lol) After buying a clutch and the pedal assembly I'd still be spending considerably less than what I was gonna pay for a 60e. Just need to do a little more research before I make the move