In case it hasn't been said yet, there was also the option of getting a 2WD, torsion bar front end, 3.73 10 bolt rear with "locker", on factory 20's. I know because I have one I bought new off the lot in 05. Has a 5.3 and is an ext. cab. I'm looking at doing a 14 bolt swap but a full floater version. Anyone have a write up on a swap for that version 14 bolt?

 

I have a 2004 Silverado 1500 z71 crew cab with a 10bolt with the g80 locker. I did a 6.0 swap, lvl3 performabuilt with a 3200 stall yank. I'm right around 520 fwhp. You can guess what happened to the 10bolt. My question is what is the budget route to upgrade from the 10 bolt? And the year rpo code, and model of the donor vehicle . Thank you in advance

 

The budget route is to fix the 10b with a better carrier. Its not terrible after you replace the g80.

 

Something's wrong if you broke the stock rear end with only 500 hp.

 

I'd slap a Eaton Detroit TrueTrac in.

Also, how often did you change the oil in your diff? Were you doing burn outs?

 

When I've seen stock rear ends go, its often because of lack of maintenance.

 

Or giving it a lot of throttle around a corner...thatll do it...

 

It Was changed 8 months ago. it's a crew cab so it's heavier then all these rc plus I'm gonna spray it, it's built to run 800hp safely on spray so I wanna be prepared and get slicks. Right now if I don't roll on it it won't hook up until 3rd. All I see is people bashing 10bolts and tall say strengthen it. And it's a ftl not a yank lol

 

For this to work with your factory wheels, you will need to bore the center out to about 4.25". Solidaxle.com has the 6 lug hubs, you just need to find the appropriate 14FF axle.