I usually isn't an issue with the block bore. Usually its a problem with the chamber size on the heads used. You just don't want them sticking into the combustion chamber cause they won't last long LOL! But from what I am looking at from your signature Just get a set of 4.8 or 5.3 MLS head gaskets and call it a day it doesn't look like you are pushing the limits of anything just yet no need to over think the whole thing. There is a cost difference in the head studs APR 2000's are around $385=shipping, and L19's are $438 +shipping and well the standard APR material is what ever Summit or Jegs sells them for I haven't purchased any of them in a while. GL.

 

ARP's torqued to 95 ft/lbs with Cometic gaskets and 15 psi. I also used some high temp, industrial strength contact cement from Ray Barton to help seal the gaskets to the heads.

 

i really need to update my signature. don't have time at the moment but a few changes are being made with this setup while i do the gaskets. a tc-78, a billet 3200 yank and a silverado ss t-case just to name a few. i was blowing through my yank tt3000 so it was time to upgrade. it now has a happy home in a buddies silverado and he love the **** out of it.

 

stock on the 5.3 and stockers on the 6.0 that just went in. how much boost you planning on pushing???

 

Use the ARP studs torqued to 95 ft/lbs. I would recomend cometic gaskets for that level of boost. Also check for coolant in the center bolt hole. Ive seen many sets of these heads crack there. That will cause your lifters to be noisy as well. There is a GM TSB out on this.

 

i will probably go 15psi max with the stock motor. but i'm going to be running ls6 heads and i can ever get them finished and running ls6 cam. i think i have stock mls gaskets in there not the graphite ones. there is a metal tab poking out on the side of the head.

i will check out the head when i pull it off to see if there are any cracks. what is the true torque of the stock bolts? does anybody actually know? i know they are torque to yield but i remember it taking a lot to get the degree's required.

 

Stock torque is 22 ft/lbs 1st pass. 90 degrees 2nd pass., 70 degrees final pass on the big bolts. ARP studs torqued with their moly lube will give you more even torque across the head surface, plus you will never need to spend 50 bucks for another set of bolts.

 

what i'm saying though is what amount of torque does that equal too? i remember it took alot of nut to do the 90 and 70 degree pass.

 

Sorry I misundestood your question. I'll admit I have have no idea how to figure that out. I would think that 95 ft/lbs on studs that are not strecthing would be tighter that the TTY's that are. Don't hold me to it though. Hopefully an pro engine builder can answer this. I just used studs because my engine machinist recommended it and after having heads off 5 times between 4 different motors I was sick of buying new bolts.

 

i guess they would pay for themselves by then lol.