I dont know if this will help you at all....but my bilge pump failed. Cruising IAT in 75* weather netted 200* MAT. a new bilge pump dropped temps back to 115-120 in 70* weather. this is with the frozen boost type 101 HE. I have no clue if my IC is the biggun or the older model. it looks like my temps are in line with yours at cruise. I'm sure I'll have the same issues at WOT.

 

Man thats HIGH. I would expect a cruise IAT to be in the ballpark of 25* over ambient.

 

I'm thinking about changing the direction of flow through the heat exchanger to go from top to bottom to try and reduce resistance in the flow. Is there a way to guarantee no bubbles in the system?

I'm losing faith in the sensors ability to report accurate air temperature. It makes absolutely no sense for the MAT sensor to read 120* in 70* weather while doing 70 down the freeway and never putting the engine under boost. Kenne Bell puts the MAT sensor pretty deep in the bottom of the blower wedged between the driver's head and the valley cover. I think some of these high readings are false/skewed from being the sensor being stuffed between the valley and heads. I have a feeling what we're seeing is radiant heat from being too close to heat soaked metal instead of an accurate airflow temp. maybe the sensor is in a dead space of the plenum at higher RPM. My plan is to act oblivious. I plan to pour on meth and just watch for knock. No knock = no worries. If I run into knock I'll pull timing from whatever temp the MAT sensor sees at that point and not put as much thought into the actual number. Probably not the best way to do it, but I'm not going to lose hair over it. wish I had a junk yard motor to test my theory on LOL

 

When I had the 2.8 KB on my truck back in the day, my intercooler pump was on a switch and if I turned it off, the iat would work it's way up to 170-180 and as soon as I turned it back in, it would cool back off to +30* or so over abiant. Their intercooler systems just don't work super great.

You also have to remember, they are a screw compressor so they are actually compressing the air as it goes through the rotors unlike a Magnacharger where it's just moving air from one side of the rotors to the other so KB is always generating heat.

 

Over the weekend my KB was running about 40* over ambient on the MAT sensor. at idle with no throttle it would spike some and as soon as i cracked the blade it would drop. I'm going to put my entire blower system under vacuum to see if i might have a pocket of air in there somewhere. The heat exchanger is not hot to the touch, and the water flowing into my overflow is luke warm, but the temps are hovering around 120-130 in 75* weather. I'm also wiring up the meth injection system soon to see how much it helps. plan to run straight meth progressive running linear with the total injector flow. from what i read, meth doesn't have a dramatic effect on twin screw blowers. more octane never hurts though.

OR, I can drag the car down the street to trick and have them build a turbo system and kick this heat sink over to someone else. I'd love to get the temps down. the torque of this car down low is insane. 33x22 tires with a 4l80e and 3.55 gears are useless.

 

 

My whipple has cruise IAT thats about 25* above ambient. Similar to what I have seen on Magnuson blowers with the "stock" cooling system. I will be curious to see if pump and HEX upgrades improve that.

 

Please dont turbo it. Everything is turbod now, just do a better blower. Do the 4.0 whipple or even the 2650 TVS if that ever comes out.

 

turbo just seems so easy. less weight, less plumbing, more tunability, more whistle noise and PSHHHHH. maybe i need a procharger...a little of both worlds.