Theoretical boost is 17.1 not taking ve into account so 3-ish psi drop across IC.

 

Do not do that. Depending on how that core is constructed, you could over heat the water causing a stream. Anywhere the core is solider together, if that steam happens in that joint. The solider will melt and cause a gross leak....

Just for kicks and giggles, have you contacted KB about why they arent able to control the heat better? or are you just past where they recommend the kit?

 

No comments on the profile of the IC-out/HEX-in temps? I can't really wrap my head around the temp drop entering boost. However, imo, the sharp and continual rise upon throttle close supports my original theory of the IC not flowing coolant the length of the IC. It is basically acting as a heat sink and heat is being conducted thru the stagnate water to the end tank where water is flowing thru.

 

You see a similar thing with ECT after a drag run. The water temp is just slower to react than you would think. Water is hard to heat up, which is good and bad. The best you can do is maximize heat transfer via large area and high turbulence.

 

Thank you for the tip. Id did not think about the solder joints inside the core. I knew there was a probability of boiling the water inside the IC but since it is not a pressurized system, the steam pressure would escape via the coolant path to the reservoir then be vented out.

Last time I called them about trying to find a replacement lower manifold when I messed mine up, the guy was very short and basically told me they don't support that kit anymore. I did send an email asking about the compatibility of the Gen5 Camaro Bigun IC with mine three weeks ago and have yet to get a response.
As far as being past where they recommend the kit... the old C5 literature touted capable of 800whp. However, every account other than KB's of the old C5 kits had the same IAT issue. That's why I keep falling back on the IC 'flow'pa.

 

Keep in mind when you close the throttle you also loose your flow of cool ambient air also which is helping your temps recover.

 

my short experience with KB is they have terrible customer service, and their kindergarten website makes them seem very arrogant. my one phone conversation asking simple questions was very short. They promised to e-mail me a PDF of the install instructions and I never received it. I later sent an e-mail asking about the bigun intercooler and what I should expect with the upgrade. I never heard back from them. the ford guys make some major power with them though. maybe we can see what's different with their setups.

now that you have all of those fancy temp sensors, you could try water wetter and see if it makes any difference at all. some of them claim 10-20* drop in temps.

 

How dare you come in here with a simple explanation! Makes some sense though. Throttle closes causing more pumping friction thru rotors, more bypass air re-circulation, reduced volume of air across IC.

Since the internal compression of the rotor pack is 15psi, I would presume the discharge temp, in boost or not, is always inlet temp + 150* so there really is no 'cooling' air when not in boost like a roots. This could be part of the reason the system continually gains heat. The IC is always trying to pull 150* out of the air. When throttle is open, the CFM of that ambient+150* air is simply overwhelming when there is not a large delta in the coolant. Notice in the previous graph, at peak IAT there is a 147* delta from AAT and starts leveling off.

 

the compression of the rotor pack is 2x the pressure it is fed. Not necessarily 15psi. Regardless the theory is right. At idle if youre at 70KPA youre still creating boost with the rotor pack, and to make matters worse youre circulating that air in a very hot aluminum intake.

 

I feel like I just had this conversation in person with someone lately...

Yea its compressing the air, but the volume through the rotors while the bypass is open is small because its such a small differential pressure.