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TVS1900 Idler Pulley Part Numbers

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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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Default TVS1900 Idler Pulley Part Numbers

Searches came up with the tensioner/pulley numbers but have had no luck with the smooth idler pulley part number for TVS1900. Anyone have gates, dayco, etc. part numbers?
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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Well after I went and repacked bearings on three pullies, the bearings were very dry and now sound much quieter. I googled to check some stamped numbers off the bearings and up pops an old BlownChevy thread with a Dayco 89006 number for this. Dimensions check right so I am good to go for spare parts.
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 10:41 PM
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Default Idler pulleys

Here is a list that will fit. you just need to choose your size you want.

Gates number and size

36101 70mm
38006 76mm
38005 82mm
36157 87mm
38001 90mm
38012 90mm Plastic
38002 100mm
36119 102mm

These fit on both idlers and you can use any of them to make your belt tension correct.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:16 AM
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At least one of those idler pulleys has a press in bearing that's easily changeable.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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Yep, and I have already ordered a $6 shipped new "skateboard" nachi bearing 6203ZZE to replace the 6203-2RS stock one on the Dayco pulley (I passed on the $148 ceramic one). The Vxb spec on the Dayco stock one was up to 12k rpm, while the nachi spec says to 18k rpm. The dynamic and static specs were the same. If it seems to work out better then I will upgrade the others. The grease in the 1 year old stock pulley bearing was roasted, so I repacked all three dry pulley bearings over the weekend. Its noticeably quieter now, at idle anyway. I won't go any faster but maybe I will go longer.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Chavette
Yep, and I have already ordered a $6 shipped new "skateboard" nachi bearing 6203ZZE to replace the 6203-2RS stock one on the Dayco pulley (I passed on the $148 ceramic one). The Vxb spec on the Dayco stock one was up to 12k rpm, while the nachi spec says to 18k rpm. The dynamic and static specs were the same. If it seems to work out better then I will upgrade the others. The grease in the 1 year old stock pulley bearing was roasted, so I repacked all three dry pulley bearings over the weekend. Its noticeably quieter now, at idle anyway. I won't go any faster but maybe I will go longer.
Mike...figgered you'd find it. Your search and find talents are epic
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Not to thread jack but should the pulleys be the same size? And is there any reason to want to run larger or smaller other than for belt tension?
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by pkozera
Not to thread jack but should the pulleys be the same size? And is there any reason to want to run larger or smaller other than for belt tension?
Another reasons for swapping pulleys...when you put a smaller pulley on the snout you will need a smaller belt...so instead of getting a belt just swap the pulley to make up the difference.

Another reason is to increase the amount of belt wrap on the snout to prevent slippage...Think of the belt as a U instead of a V the angle at which the belt is going to the next pulley. Thats what the idlers will help create that U.

Think this should clear it up..
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Thanks for the info. So the 102 mm would be best for wrap?
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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well it all depends on what you already have...i would recommend maybe slitting the difference or putting 2x102 if they fit and getting a longer belt

the idea was for guys who were getting smaller snout pulleys just to change the idler instead of getting a shorter blet
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