TVS Powered 5.3 Having Knock Sensor Issue
#1
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
Please bear with me, I am keeping this as detailed as possible so that I make sure all the details are provided to assist me.
OK... I installed the TVS1900 without any unforeseen issues. Had my tuner (blackbear) reprogram my PCM for the TVS and some other mods i did (cat delete, headers, rear gears, etc). It drove good for a few miles while test driving. Babied it the entire time. Then it started bogging down real bad and throwing up the check engine light. Threw the truck on a scanner, showed that the #2 knock sensor was acting up, causing the truck to think it was going to go kablooey and shutting the engine into a safe mode?
**Now, going back to the install of the TVS, it requires you to remove the knock sensors, harness, and valley cover and swap it for a different valley cover, reinstall the knock sensors, and dismantle the knock sensor harness to allow you to run it down a ridge on the new valley cover. I did all that, as noted in the instructions.
Fast fwd to today. I removed the blower and removed knock sensor #2 and replaced it with a brand new one. Some observations made revealed no damage or fray to the knock sensor harness, nothing out of the ordinary. I did notice, however, that the knock sensor cover on #2 doesn't really "snap" down per say as well as the #1 sensor. The black cover seems like it wants to pop back up and doesn't lock down, or have anything holding it in. I am sure with the TVS on top, it'll push down, but I am wondering if this could be a contributing cause?
I want to make sure I have done everything 100% before bolting the blower back down and calling it a day. Can anyone give me any idea as to why the sensor would have gone bad and/or if there is anything else i should check for before I put it all back together?
Thanks again in advance for the help!
OK... I installed the TVS1900 without any unforeseen issues. Had my tuner (blackbear) reprogram my PCM for the TVS and some other mods i did (cat delete, headers, rear gears, etc). It drove good for a few miles while test driving. Babied it the entire time. Then it started bogging down real bad and throwing up the check engine light. Threw the truck on a scanner, showed that the #2 knock sensor was acting up, causing the truck to think it was going to go kablooey and shutting the engine into a safe mode?
**Now, going back to the install of the TVS, it requires you to remove the knock sensors, harness, and valley cover and swap it for a different valley cover, reinstall the knock sensors, and dismantle the knock sensor harness to allow you to run it down a ridge on the new valley cover. I did all that, as noted in the instructions.
Fast fwd to today. I removed the blower and removed knock sensor #2 and replaced it with a brand new one. Some observations made revealed no damage or fray to the knock sensor harness, nothing out of the ordinary. I did notice, however, that the knock sensor cover on #2 doesn't really "snap" down per say as well as the #1 sensor. The black cover seems like it wants to pop back up and doesn't lock down, or have anything holding it in. I am sure with the TVS on top, it'll push down, but I am wondering if this could be a contributing cause?
I want to make sure I have done everything 100% before bolting the blower back down and calling it a day. Can anyone give me any idea as to why the sensor would have gone bad and/or if there is anything else i should check for before I put it all back together?
Thanks again in advance for the help!
Last edited by SuperchargedSS; Aug 10, 2009 at 12:46 PM.
#2
Matt (tootall) put some black RTV silicone sealant around the black cover of each knock sensor before he put them back in to keep any moisture out, that might help hold it in place too. Be extra careful with them, Matt said they are very fragile.
#3
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
yeah, good info. I contemplated putting some silicone around them to lock them in place. I certainly was extremely careful with this last one. I am not about to yank the blower back off for replacing a sensor again!
#4
knock sensors are super sensitive . . . like PMS sensitive . . . with bolting them down or function wise
They have to "click" when they're seated . . . They use a voltage reference to confirm that they're working . . . They control the "life and death" for power/timing.
They can be over torqued, or just flat out separate from the top and bottoms. The studd that's on the inside is pressed in, and the casing is pretty thin.
I'd replace them both, and the plugs too. You can get the plugs by themselves, and solder them back together . . . don't use the butt connectors that come with them.
Use RTV sealant on the cups and on the wire that goes threw the center of the cup.
They have to "click" when they're seated . . . They use a voltage reference to confirm that they're working . . . They control the "life and death" for power/timing.
They can be over torqued, or just flat out separate from the top and bottoms. The studd that's on the inside is pressed in, and the casing is pretty thin.
I'd replace them both, and the plugs too. You can get the plugs by themselves, and solder them back together . . . don't use the butt connectors that come with them.
Use RTV sealant on the cups and on the wire that goes threw the center of the cup.
#5
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
knock sensors are super sensitive . . . like PMS sensitive . . . with bolting them down or function wise
They have to "click" when they're seated . . . They use a voltage reference to confirm that they're working . . . They control the "life and death" for power/timing.
They can be over torqued, or just flat out separate from the top and bottoms. The studd that's on the inside is pressed in, and the casing is pretty thin.
I'd replace them both, and the plugs too. You can get the plugs by themselves, and solder them back together . . . don't use the butt connectors that come with them.
Use RTV sealant on the cups and on the wire that goes threw the center of the cup.
They have to "click" when they're seated . . . They use a voltage reference to confirm that they're working . . . They control the "life and death" for power/timing.
They can be over torqued, or just flat out separate from the top and bottoms. The studd that's on the inside is pressed in, and the casing is pretty thin.
I'd replace them both, and the plugs too. You can get the plugs by themselves, and solder them back together . . . don't use the butt connectors that come with them.
Use RTV sealant on the cups and on the wire that goes threw the center of the cup.
#7
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
Anyhow, thanks for the info.
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