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TVS Powered 5.3 Having Knock Sensor Issue

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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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Default TVS Powered 5.3 Having Knock Sensor Issue

Please bear with me, I am keeping this as detailed as possible so that I make sure all the details are provided to assist me.

OK... I installed the TVS1900 without any unforeseen issues. Had my tuner (blackbear) reprogram my PCM for the TVS and some other mods i did (cat delete, headers, rear gears, etc). It drove good for a few miles while test driving. Babied it the entire time. Then it started bogging down real bad and throwing up the check engine light. Threw the truck on a scanner, showed that the #2 knock sensor was acting up, causing the truck to think it was going to go kablooey and shutting the engine into a safe mode?

**Now, going back to the install of the TVS, it requires you to remove the knock sensors, harness, and valley cover and swap it for a different valley cover, reinstall the knock sensors, and dismantle the knock sensor harness to allow you to run it down a ridge on the new valley cover. I did all that, as noted in the instructions.

Fast fwd to today. I removed the blower and removed knock sensor #2 and replaced it with a brand new one. Some observations made revealed no damage or fray to the knock sensor harness, nothing out of the ordinary. I did notice, however, that the knock sensor cover on #2 doesn't really "snap" down per say as well as the #1 sensor. The black cover seems like it wants to pop back up and doesn't lock down, or have anything holding it in. I am sure with the TVS on top, it'll push down, but I am wondering if this could be a contributing cause?

I want to make sure I have done everything 100% before bolting the blower back down and calling it a day. Can anyone give me any idea as to why the sensor would have gone bad and/or if there is anything else i should check for before I put it all back together?

Thanks again in advance for the help!

Last edited by SuperchargedSS; Aug 10, 2009 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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Matt (tootall) put some black RTV silicone sealant around the black cover of each knock sensor before he put them back in to keep any moisture out, that might help hold it in place too. Be extra careful with them, Matt said they are very fragile.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TX Tahoe Z71
Matt (tootall) put some black RTV silicone sealant around the black cover of each knock sensor before he put them back in to keep any moisture out, that might help hold it in place too. Be extra careful with them, Matt said they are very fragile.
yeah, good info. I contemplated putting some silicone around them to lock them in place. I certainly was extremely careful with this last one. I am not about to yank the blower back off for replacing a sensor again!
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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knock sensors are super sensitive . . . like PMS sensitive . . . with bolting them down or function wise

They have to "click" when they're seated . . . They use a voltage reference to confirm that they're working . . . They control the "life and death" for power/timing.

They can be over torqued, or just flat out separate from the top and bottoms. The studd that's on the inside is pressed in, and the casing is pretty thin.

I'd replace them both, and the plugs too. You can get the plugs by themselves, and solder them back together . . . don't use the butt connectors that come with them.

Use RTV sealant on the cups and on the wire that goes threw the center of the cup.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tootall
knock sensors are super sensitive . . . like PMS sensitive . . . with bolting them down or function wise

They have to "click" when they're seated . . . They use a voltage reference to confirm that they're working . . . They control the "life and death" for power/timing.

They can be over torqued, or just flat out separate from the top and bottoms. The studd that's on the inside is pressed in, and the casing is pretty thin.

I'd replace them both, and the plugs too. You can get the plugs by themselves, and solder them back together . . . don't use the butt connectors that come with them.

Use RTV sealant on the cups and on the wire that goes threw the center of the cup.
Interesting. I guess i could replace the entire setup, can't hurt. hmmm...
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:40 PM
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Sounds more like an over torqued knock sensor than anything else. When you replace then use some black RTV to seal the cover over the knock sensor.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BlownChevy
Sounds more like an over torqued knock sensor than anything else. When you replace then use some black RTV to seal the cover over the knock sensor.
ah, i was hoping you'd chime in here brian. When i took the old sensor out, I can tell you that it was definetly tight. The new one I put in today was snugged up, but not torqued down like the last one. We'll see how she goes!

Anyhow, thanks for the info.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 05:05 AM
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I think the torque requirement is only 15 ft lbs or so. It's not a lot.
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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they need to be torqued down more than an intake bolt, but less than the exhaust bolts . . . of that helps any
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1

Knock sensors - 15 lb ft
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