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Turbo Oil Drainback?

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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 08:38 AM
  #11  
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Rick...are those -10 drains? Looks like -6 or -8? I've had issues on other turbo builds with not enough drain and smoking.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Schraders
Rick...are those -10 drains? Looks like -6 or -8? I've had issues on other turbo builds with not enough drain and smoking.
-10an with 3/8npt adapters for the pan. In that shot, the left drain looks like it's going uphill but it's actually pretty level.

Rick
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 02'Z71ONDUBZ'
I know its not a big deal but if you wanted to take you pan off ould you have to remove the an fitting to get the oil pan bolt out?
Im just trying to get a good idea of exactly where to put my new one because i didnt like how my return line had to go uopwards againt gravity when it was directly under the crank
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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You could put it in the middle and bring it out in front of the pulley.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
You could put it in the middle and bring it out in front of the pulley.
well thats where mine is now, but the fitting sits behind the pulley so the hose has to go down so it doesnt hit the pulley. From the picture above its almost like my crank pulley is bigger?! because its in the way
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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Here is another way.
Attached Thumbnails Turbo Oil Drainback?-100_3467.jpg   Turbo Oil Drainback?-100_3509.jpg  
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 11:57 PM
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That is the stock crank pulley on my truck... Having it to the side of the pulley will give you some extra room. You definitely don't want your drain line working against gravity. I think my pic makes it look like the fitting is further away from the pulley than it really is because of the camera angle. It is fairly close, but everything clears just fine. Just make sure you will have enough room for the fitting on the hose to turn.

And yes, I believe you would have to remove the fitting to get to the two pan bolts above it. However, I wouldn't hesitate to remove the fitting at all. You can see that their is quite a bit of threads left over with the teflon wrap on them. When I was tapping my pan, I would run the tap in a ways and then thread the fitting in to see how far it would go before the taper of the NPT threads got tight. When I got close to half way through the threads on the fitting, I stopped with the tap, wrapped the fitting with tape, and started it in. I got two or three additional threads before I was happy with how tight it was, but there is still plenty of room to take it out and run it back in. Just make sure the fitting you buy has NPT threads because you need the taper in the threads.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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Are you guys using -10 bulkhead fittings? Can you post a link to some or PM.

Thanks
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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NO bulk head, just drill and tap. The pans are plenty thick to hold a thread.
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