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Old Sep 15, 2018 | 08:42 AM
  #21  
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Switch to hydroboost, it's not hard and it is worth it.
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 10:34 AM
  #22  
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Definitely switch to hydroboost brakes, the factory vacuum brakes suck. Plus the engine bay looks better
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 05:25 PM
  #23  
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Ok, 2 guys who know what they're doing suggest hydroboost. Any clue what the cost of switching is?
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 06:53 PM
  #24  
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$200ish depending where you get everything. I made a huge write-up about it on here a few years ago.
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 08:42 PM
  #25  
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That ain't nuthin too scary. I'll look for your writeup.
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 03:45 AM
  #26  
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Atomic, found your writeup on the H-boost switch. Great writeup!

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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 11:16 AM
  #27  
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I bought my setup from a company on eBay called “just Chevy trucks” came with pump, hydroboost and master cylinder, and all the lines. You need a different pedal tho, the Hydroboost pedal has a different mounting location for the pushrod. The eBay company was the best bang for the buck that I found. And I researched the pedal and purchased it new from GM online as well for maybe $35
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 06:51 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by MrHorsepowerLSx
I bought my setup from a company on eBay called “just Chevy trucks” came with pump, hydroboost and master cylinder, and all the lines. You need a different pedal tho, the Hydroboost pedal has a different mounting location for the pushrod. The eBay company was the best bang for the buck that I found. And I researched the pedal and purchased it new from GM online as well for maybe $35
Thanks for all that info.
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 03:21 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Northeastconfederate
Can someone address the area ratio question?

Also Tig's question about hot side tubing is a good one. I know a little bit about the effects of pipe diameter on flow rate (velocity) vs pressure, at least in pump and piping systems (I'm a power plant operator). Though how that fluid dynamics theory applies to hot exhaust gas movement and turbo function, I'm not sure.
Found this for some interesting reading and helpful as well. 2" sounds good to me and easy to make.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...er-pipe-3.html

Copied from that thread by Phil, post #41

"Here is some data from real world applications that perform at the top level of competition.
From my import days I learned how important velocity was....


- 632 BB with twin 94s, 3.5" crossover
8300rpm, 35# of boost will make 3500hp
1100fps in the crossover

- 525BB with Twin 88s, 3.5" crossover
8500rpms, 42# of boost
1050fps in the crossover

(my turd which has gone 164 @ 3300 to the 1/8 mile)
438" small block with 106, 2.5" crossover
8500rpms, 40# of boost
900 FPS in the crossover

Lets say a 346 would make 450 at the tires NA, you would need 14-15# to double the rwhp assuming its built correctly

346", 15psi, 7500rpms
2" crossover yeilds 550 fps
2 1/8" crossover yeilds 480 fps
2.25" crossover yeilds 430 fps
2.5" crossover yields 350 fps"
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 07:15 PM
  #30  
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Keep the mach number under 1 and itll be fine. Speed of sound goes way up with temperature and pressure, so you can get away with a lot smaller pipes than you could on the cold side.
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