Truck is running
#1
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,515
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From: Suburban Chicago
Still on stands, though. Allen showed me how to delete the alternator codes (2002 PCM), EGR codes, turn the EGR off (I had to remove it for clearance), and zero the EGR advance table.
I've been running it to set up the Spal fan controller. It would have been easier to use the Nelson Performance fan harness. I thought the Spal controller would be easier because they are Spal fans, but there is about the same amount of wire piggybacking on either setup. They are nice and quiet, and appear to move enough air.
It took awhile to learn how to idle, this is the first PCM that I've installed that didn't idle right away. And it's the last PCM that I'll install, now that I have HP Tuners.
There is one concern about the way it runs. When I raise the rpm, to maybe 2000, and let off the gas, the rpm drops below idle speed to zero. It dies. When I raise the rpm to about 1200 and let off, it drops below idle, but catches itself and stays running.
Does anybody know if this is a tuning issue, or could it be because my gas is so old? Or is there foundation to my fear that the MAF needs to be relocated to the engine side of the I/C? Or should I just shut up and get it ready and drive it?
I've been running it to set up the Spal fan controller. It would have been easier to use the Nelson Performance fan harness. I thought the Spal controller would be easier because they are Spal fans, but there is about the same amount of wire piggybacking on either setup. They are nice and quiet, and appear to move enough air.
It took awhile to learn how to idle, this is the first PCM that I've installed that didn't idle right away. And it's the last PCM that I'll install, now that I have HP Tuners.
There is one concern about the way it runs. When I raise the rpm, to maybe 2000, and let off the gas, the rpm drops below idle speed to zero. It dies. When I raise the rpm to about 1200 and let off, it drops below idle, but catches itself and stays running.
Does anybody know if this is a tuning issue, or could it be because my gas is so old? Or is there foundation to my fear that the MAF needs to be relocated to the engine side of the I/C? Or should I just shut up and get it ready and drive it?
#3
It almost sounds like the IAC is sticking or an air leak around the manifold. Same thing happened to me when the tube for the EGR to the manifold broke ( inside the heat wrap so I could not see it ). Did exactly what you described.
Spray some starter fluid around the hoses and manifold, if the RPM's jump up you found your problem area.
Spray some starter fluid around the hoses and manifold, if the RPM's jump up you found your problem area.
Last edited by ktmrider; Jun 14, 2006 at 01:51 PM.
#7
That same thing happened to me and it was a maf failure. Just got a new one and problem solved. See if one of your buddies will let you put theres on and try it. Thats what i did rather than buying one. Its worth a shot before you drive yourself nuts tuning.
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