You will find most of the big power 4XXci motors are running a mid 230s cam, there isnt any need for anything more, the big hair dryer forces enough air in there you dont need a huge duration or crazy lift for a street app. Parish and Turboberserker are both running 234ish duration cams, all that large cam is going to do is make driving around town with a stick like riding a bucking bronco.

 

I like to try the TU0 216 216 .561 .561 on a 114.
i know it wont have the thump of the TU3 but it should trap
a little more in the cylinder.

 

why would it buck? my NA 408 drove like a stock motor with its 244/248.

maybe ill keep my search going

 

+1 that guy is a cam wiz.

 

I just got off the phone with Clay Smith Cams. I have been running their cam in my twin screw 408 and it has worked well. I called to tell them I was in the process of installing a twin turbo package. I was wondering if they should grind me a different cam. Their senior cam person suggested I just use the one I presently have and said it will work great in my application. It is a 284-284(232-232@.050) .557-.557. It is on a 110 centerline and was installed per their reccomendation at +3 degrees. He said having the extra overlap will not be a problem as long as the turbo's can produce the needed air flow. Having a 110-112 centerline over a 115-117 will result in lower EGT's. He said that the wider lobe seperation is helpful in allowing a smaller turbo to build more boost, but a narrower lobe center will make even more power with the right sized turbo and airflow. The narrower lobe center does help with the EGT's. My previous cam in the same engine was on a 114 lobe center and my EGT's were usually 200-300 degrees higher.
Check out the December issue of Hot Rod Magazine. On their 6.0 build with the Maggie they tested 3 cams with the same duration/lift ground on 3 different LSA's, 110,115 & 118. The cam with the 110 LSA made the most power and even raised the power peak from 6700 to 6900 rpm. It seems that if your tuning program can handle the reduced vacuum of the tighter LSA's and the prower adder has the capacity, you will make more power with the tighter LSA cams. Of course the lower EGT's are an added plus as well.

 

It takes half the cam most people think they need to run a Turbo. Thats all.

Rick

 

+1

When you make your own atmosphere conditions, cam becomes WAY less important.

You show me a 20hp gain with just a cam change in a turbo motor and I'll show you a 30hp gain with just a pound or two of boost. Much easier

 

my days of researching turbo mustangs led me to understand a cam was basically there for sound. {stock blocks split at 500} I do know that a cam can help with making power depending if other supporting mods work

 

Look at it this way, Quik: What you want to do is pretty close (if not) a max effort build. In a max effort build, every little bit helps

I think what Rick and KB are saying, though, is don't worry about how big of a cam it is -- get the one that will work the best with your turbo. I completely agree -- a big cam isn't necessary, but the wrong cam (small or large) will hurt ya.

 

I agree to a point.Alot of Cam specs in this thread are just too big for me.