Im tryin to get the wiring harness all straightened out...

I dont have a camera so im just goin to try to explain..


Have a Red wire with a 15a Fuse.... That goes to a 12+V power source.

Have a blue wire thats in the same loom with a 1/4" Male Spade. (Dont know where it goes)

Alarm wires with the 1/8" jack... its obvious

Green wire that has been cut, it goes to the oil pump connector.... Whats this?

Relay pod thing, Looks like it could possibly be for the power for the other Relay and the Hobs switch and little pump thing. Few of the wires are pulled out of the first Relay Pod... so i got to fix that up.

Whats the little Pump and Hob switch for? Its connected to the main wiring harness. Does it hook to the crank case vent??




Wow thats alot of stuff.... fixin to finish up my trans and come back to check here...


I appreciate it guys!!!!!!

 

The blue wire is for the fuel pump signal. You tap into the gray wire under the fuse box and it is supposed to be t-taped to it. We always soder it.

The silver switch valve is for crank case vent. The Hobbs switch sees 1psi and does 2 things. One is make the switch valve switch so that it doesnt allow you to boost the crankcase. The other is when it sees 1psi it turns the oil pump on high.
More often than not, we get rid of the switch valve and use a catch can. You still need to use the Hobbs switch so the pump will work on high.

 

Where do i install or tap into for the Hobbs switch?

 

On the Hemi's we get the vacuum/boost reference source for the hobbs switch from the brake booster but the Chevy's might have a better/different option.

 

As far as vacume/boost, you get it from the throttle body or intake by the throttle body depending on year. The electrical is either 2 or 3 eyelets, depending on when your kit was made.

 

Last thing is the green wire.... whats it for?? Cant figure that one out...

 

Green wire is extra, for a boost controller or whatever.

Also, make sure you check the Hobbs switch that it is adjusted right.
It should switch the pump to high and cut off the hose from the throttle body so you dont boost the case.

 

What about putting it inline with the brake booster vaccum line??
I Figured if i did that, i could do away with the valve switch thingy..

 

You can do away with the switch valve, but you still need to be able to vent the crank case. We use a cheap Summit breather tank quite a bit; part number SUM-15104. Cap off the port at the top of the throttle body, vent both valve covers to the catch can; put the Hobbs switch somewhere where it will see boost and you are good.
It is easier to put it off of the throttle body though. Make sure to tape up the wire that went to the switch valve as it is hot.

 

Ok... i got some tubing and ran a little extention from the TB Tube back toward the fuel rail.. Got enough space and added some protection on the Terminals for the Hobbs Switch.

Ya think the factory tube that goes from the PS Valve cover is big enough to vent any pressure??

Reason im asking is,, i have no clue of how much Pressure actually gets into the Crankcase..

Got her up and running today... She runs great!!! Just want to double check everything before i really start to get into boost alot..