Well I built new wires. Found my old 8.5mm's from an old Honda motor, used those to make new truck wires. They read about 35-49ohms vs 800-1000ohms. I swapped out the driver side plugs with some old ones from when the motor went. I used the ones from the holes that didn't get messed up of course. The driver side is the one that flooded from the coils being hooked up wrong. The miss is still there, It's better but still there. It's good till about 105kpa then is misses pretty good then as boost rises it clears up some. That's the part that has me confused. At 105 kpa I'm at 13.5:1 by 4-5psi I'm at 11.5:1 and stays there across the board to 10psi. Timing is 16-17* with these high temps in Florida. The coil packs are the same as before. Checked continuity from the spark plug holes to battery ground it's .1 ohms, So they are grounded well. I don't think the coil packs use the valve covers as grounds in any way. Rubber O ring for gasket and rubber boots around the bolts there is no way for it to get a ground.

I have my old 5.3 coils I could try. I swapped them out because I thought they were causing the idle issues I was having, but that turned out to be an injector issue. With the new injectors getting the idle tuned was a breeze. The 5.3 coils are the ones with the heat sinks that take the short plug wires. The ones I'm using now are the huge square 6L ones. From what I've been reading the square ones are suppose to be the strong ones.

I'm running the 7's btw. They seem to be the perfect heat range. The old 6's had burn spots on the ceramic and that was at stock compression. I'm at about 10.1:1 plus or minus, I didn't have my heads cc'd. They are ls6 heads and been milled a total of about .005 tops, pistons are .007 out of holes and 9.6cc dish iirc at 4.003 bore.

 

I have had this same issue twice.

Once it was a dying crank sensor, which might be your issue depending on how much crap got toss around in your motor that blew. Once i replaced it everything was fine.

The second time it was the roadrunner pcm. I swapped back in the stock pcm and everything was fine.

 

Computer is stock but I do have the old 5.3 crank sensor I could try. I did clean it up before I out it back in. I wonder, when you set the thrust bearing, the book says the final smack should be forward so the crank wheel lines up fully. I did all that but when I installed the crank pulley I smack it a few times to seat it. I wonder if I need to some how pull it forward.

 

Ok I logged today on my way to work and home. Turns out it is lean everywhere but in boost after about 5psi. At 100kpa it hit 15:1 a few times. Depending on rpm when I rolled into it. However my offsets for my wideband seem to be off cause the whole log wanted me to pull fuel not add it. So I'm going to have to dick with it some and see if I can't get the wideband closer to what it really is.

 

Where are you reading your wideband from? From an actual gauge or hoping your offsets are correct in HPT?

 

Misfires show up as lean on a wideband and o2s.

 

I'm watching my wideband when I'm driving. Then I look at the log and it says negative everywhere meaning it want to pull fuel. So I watched closely to the active log and the wideband and when the wideband is hitting 15.8 the log is showing 14.9-15.1. The other day it was much closer. I'm not sure if it has to do with the slow *** computer I'm using or what. When I was running parrelles on my Mac with xp it was off but by maybe .1 if that. So I'm not sure if it the computer speed that's messing it up or what.

 

I can see it lean before the misfires happen. Watching the guage as I roll Into it it was already over 15:1 and as kpa increased Afr didn't drop then you feel the slight bog/loss in power then the misfires. If you keep at it it richens up in deeper boost and clears up. Also cruising at about 80 the rpm is higher as I rolled Into boost and in that region it was at the proper Afr and when boost came in there was no misfire.

I'll see if I can post up the log. At one point you should look for the all the sensors go into a squiggle. It's hard to explain but easy to see.

 

ok here it is.
10.20.479 is when the squiggle thing starts. the whole truck was bucking like crazy. I lowered the timing some and added fuel.

 

Are your o2 sensors even plugged up?