Pics of twin turbo SBC header progress
#16
Originally Posted by sc186
Taken from the original post
"So decided to build one side in mild steel to check the layout before I order stainless steel and merge collectors."
It appears that he is mocking up these before the final approach.
"So decided to build one side in mild steel to check the layout before I order stainless steel and merge collectors."
It appears that he is mocking up these before the final approach.
But you are correct, they are just mock ups. I was just going to spot weld them, but have been having problems with the welder so welded them all the way trying to figure out what was going on with the welder. At first I thought it was the pinch roller, but finally determined the issue is the inner liner is causing the wire to bind. So will need to order another Tweco liner for it this week.
Any comments on what brand/model AC/DC HF Tig welder 180+ amps you prefer? Looking at picking up a Miller Syncrowave 200 for the final work (headers, aluminum, etc.)
#17
Originally Posted by sc186
Taken from the original post
"So decided to build one side in mild steel to check the layout before I order stainless steel and merge collectors."
It appears that he is mocking up these before the final approach.
"So decided to build one side in mild steel to check the layout before I order stainless steel and merge collectors."
It appears that he is mocking up these before the final approach.
Firing order detail: Not that it matters much on a turbo or on a non-merge collector, but every little bit helps
I will use the drivers side as an example. The SBC (prior to the LS1) firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, in order to get the best scavange the collector should look as follows looking at it from the end:5 7
3 1
OR
7 5
1 3
This way when 1 fires it assist 3, when 3 fires it assist 5, when 5 fires it assist 7, and when 7 fires it assist 1. If the pipes that are to scavange are diagonal, they do not assist as much in the scavange.
Now if you have swapped 4 & 7 on your cam, your firing order is 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2, the the collector would be layed out differently, looking from the end again:
3 5
7 1
OR
5 3
1 7
Cheers,
Michael
Last edited by GTR4ME; Mar 30, 2006 at 11:02 AM.
#19
Originally Posted by GTR4ME
I don't let these guys bother me too much
But you are correct, they are just mock ups.
I was just going to spot weld them, but have been having problems with the welder so welded them all the way trying to figure out what was going on with the welder. At first I thought it was the pinch roller, but finally determined the issue is the inner liner is causing the wire to bind. So will need to order another Tweco liner for it this week.
Any comments on what brand/model AC/DC HF Tig welder 180+ amps you prefer? Looking at picking up a Miller Syncrowave 200 for the final work (headers, aluminum, etc.)
But you are correct, they are just mock ups. I was just going to spot weld them, but have been having problems with the welder so welded them all the way trying to figure out what was going on with the welder. At first I thought it was the pinch roller, but finally determined the issue is the inner liner is causing the wire to bind. So will need to order another Tweco liner for it this week.
Any comments on what brand/model AC/DC HF Tig welder 180+ amps you prefer? Looking at picking up a Miller Syncrowave 200 for the final work (headers, aluminum, etc.)
We have a Sync 180 here at school, its amazing, we welded up this with it:
#20
Originally Posted by duwem
We have a Sync 180 here at school, its amazing, we welded up this with it: 


At first I was looking at the Lincoln Precision Tig 185, but I have always been told that Miller is a better machine. So I have been looking at the Sync 200, my local shop that I deal with has a cash deal on them for a little over $1800. Would love to have a Fronius Transtig 2200, but don't want to drop that kind of coin....


