iregret

iTrader: (4)

Would it be worth picking up a 5.3 off of Craigslist just to rebuild for a turbo setup? I know everyone likes the 6.0 but I've seen high mileage 5.3s on Craigslist for around 500.00.

If your goals were 7 or 800 horsepower how would you build the engine?

Let's pretend you used the stage 4 Trick Performance turbo kit.

A SC3000 stall converter and 4L80E.

LS6 cam/springs.

Stock heads I guess.

How do you rebuild a 5.3L without spending 3000.00 on a forged rotating assembly? How are people making such high horsepower numbers on stock bottom ends?

I just think it would be nice to have a back up plan. Throwing a turbo setup on high mileage 5.3 seems like trouble. How do you rebuild a 5.3 strong without having 10,000.00 tied up in engine/turbo build?

Is it impossible?
Do you guys not have back up plans? Are the stock engines just that good?

TXSZ66AVLANCHE

iTrader: (7)

Its a good idea, I have two completely rebuilt 5.3's on standby, I used OEM equivalent parts but added new flat top pistons to both engines. I read an article in Super Chevy? Saying that the stock bottom end could withstand crazy high HP but don't remember the exact number haha

01silvy

Yeah i've read somewhere too that the stock crank can hold somewhere along the lines of about 1k horsepower(depending on revs though i would think). If i was you though i would consider doing forged rods, i looked at a diagram one time how stock rods flex under revs compared to forged units and the stress around the top of the beam and the piston pin area was crazy.. After watching it i'll deff be doing forged rods for reliability.

TXSZ66AVLANCHE

iTrader: (7)

I used the floating pin rods that come on the newer engines, much stronger looking.

02'Z71ONDUBZ'

iTrader: (8)

Simple, forget the 5.3 and buy a 4.8.
Pick up a newer one with the LS2 style rods and I believe they have the LS7 lifters too. If you want to, put ARP rod bolts in it. Personally, I would leave the bottom end alone and keep the RPM's down at shift. Pull the heads and swap in LS9 headgaskets with ARP studs. Pick up a set of CNC's 243's and stick in a small cam like the Isky 212 or LS6. You will already have the 90mm intake to go with. Boost the **** out of it, keep timing safe and the RPM's down, I believe that is a key to stockers living under these conditions. E85 would be a must at that power level IMO. This is my plan for my next project

iregret

iTrader: (4)

When you say newer what year do you mean?

I'd rather not run E85 just because there is only 1 place near me that sells it. I'm not opposed to running methanol if I have to.

What's the deal with the 4.8? Why would it be any stronger than the 5.3 or 6.0? I've read where other guys have said the same thing but no one has said why.

It seems weird to go backwards in displacement. LOL.

1989k1500

iTrader: (23)

Get a 05+ 5.3 and just freshen it up if you feel it needs it. As long as the tune is good it will hold 900+ crank hp. Once you get up past that they will bend the connecting rods.

700whp wouldn't be a problem with a stock 5.3 with food fuel and a good tune. SilveradoL33 ran his at 680+whp thru an 80e, 14b sf, and 35s.

old motorhead

iTrader: (10)

The 4.8L connecting rods are still longer on the newer motors...right?

Lil brother PI

i like 5.3 beter than 6.0s that i why i decided to build mine but u can reach those hp levels but not sure if u can keep it "in a budget" kit around 4k, fuel system not sure maybe around 800-1000 depends i guess not really sure....then for sure u would need a built tranny and then the stal land list goes on bro

joeyc125

iTrader: (7)

Scat I-beam rods, stock flat top pistons, a good set of rings, ls9 gaskets, arp head studs with 243's and let it rip. I don't really like the ls2 style rods as much as some people do, they are the heaviest rod out there. I'm using the scat forged I-beams, they're lightweight and will take more then the stock pistons will. Forget the ls6 can unless you can find one under $100, isky 212/212/112 is proven to make huge power and work real well with a mild converter. Keep the converter around 3-3200 and you will have lots of fun!