as long as the drain is a strait shot - then you can have just a 1/8 npt fitting. thats what i have

 

So I'm a little confused, should we be running a higher weight oil or something still 5-10w30 just rated for race applications?

 

Wouldn't you think that oil should be more engine specific due to the tolerances for the bearings. Also what about tempeture of where the vehicle is kept. To thick of oil in the winter where it is cold will take the oil longer to get to the valve train which would cause premature wear and or lifter failure. Most peoples engines cost more than their turbos shouldn't that be what we are trying to protect?

 

I've heard with our oil pumps you don't want to run heavier than 10w-30. So I think its important to make sure the oil can handle the extra heat and abuse of forced induction.

 

Ok, I guell I'll be the one to call BS on this one. First, I'm not saying the oil they recommend isn't "better," or that i recommend cheap oil. However, if you read the article, one of the first things they say is the encourage you to exceed the rated limits of the turbos, and the turbo is their main failure point in their cars. This in itself tells me they aren't very sharp... If you are having lots of issues with wrecking turbos while you are constantly exceeding their rated max rpm's, would you change parts rather than band aid it with different oil? To me, that's like running thick oil because your oil pressure is low on a worn engine. They didn't mention any engine problems with reg. syn oil. I personally have had no issues running valvoline synpower oil in my turbo engines, and don't recall hearing of any engine failures due to poor quality oil. IMO the race oils may be good for a race only vehicle, but I think any good quality synthetic does just fine for us, plus I don't want to run a non detergent oil in my street driven engine.
Just my $.02