I'm sure its fine. Probably wanting to make sure they have something good to tell you

 

... prolly still tryin to buff off all the rubber that melted onto the fenders when they did the first test drive...

Bill

 

sorry to be a negative nancy, lol but after all the bullshit i've been thru over the past 18 months i'm sure you can understand.

 

update: truck had some fuel pressure issues. turned out to be a ground wire going to the aeromotive pump controller. please, nobody buy a huge *** race fuel pump and pump controller for your truck, please.

anywho, they are still waiting for free dyno time. extremely busy. the concensus is that the problem is likely in the tune. but, who knows. one can only guess until it gets on the dyno.

pray for me that it is something stupid like a bad tune or a bad fuel injector or something relatively inexpensive.

 

did they redo the location of things at all? or just kinda clean up what was already there? still rooting for you!

 

so far just cleaned up the friggin horrible mess that was there

 

Good Luck DanaliHD... my fingers are crossed for you.

 

progress is being made. boost controller was wired wrong, not surprised and they totally wiped out the tune, reloaded a stock tune, and started over. it as seemingly pretty f'd up too, probably because of all the vacuum/exhaust leaks. kinda hard to tune properly that way. duh.

so the question i was asked is, at WOT, what rpm do i want to shift at? I said 6200rpm. sound about right?

 

I'm thinking they should program shifting based on where the power band is at when at WOT... or at least where its at after the shift occurs, no? Am I wrong?

Bill

 

A dyno pull should give them that info. Just slightly after power starts to fall off. If its still pulling at 6200 then I would say as high as you are comfortable spinning it.