MP122 - What Compression?
#11
#12
I live in CT, 2bar custom SlowHawk tune, 100% meth @ 4.5lbs, on the Mag122 heat exchanger kit. Prob is that when I spin it up any higher KR becomes an issue and its just a heat soak. Now since I've droppped some of my temps recently with a few tweaks I've made I might be able to bump it up now...waiting for cooler temps to do some tuning. My debate now is, do I keep fighting against the obvious limitations of the Mag, or just bolt on a turbo
- and maybe get gobs more power on the same base set-up.
- and maybe get gobs more power on the same base set-up.
#13
Maybe starting with a turbo would've been a good choice before the build, but I sure wouldn't switch at this point. There are plenty of trucks that use Mags with enormous success. Sounds like a great build, just hang in there!
#14
I ran his truck at 10psi which made 10-20hp more than the 6-8lbs he has now.Thats all the combo does. Intake temps hit 200-240 degree's running 3 gears.Wit hthe straight meth it is lower.
#15
I have never seen temps like that. Did you look for the cause of the temps. There is no way that temps like that are caused by the 122HH. If it was caused by the 122HH then everyone would be seeing those especially at those modest boost levels.
#16
It's not boost level,it's the speed the blower is spinning that creates heat.Dh's truck has an overdrive crank pulley with either the 2.8",3.0 or 3.2 blower pulley.With the 2.8" the inlet would get stupid high temps.Boost pressure is only a measure of back pressure as I'm sure you know.This is the main reason this truck should be running 10-1 comp or even 10.5-1 comp.so the blower would work less to fill the cylinders.
We had nothing to do with building the motor,as ussual we have the pleasure of tuning it to try to make it work.
My suggestion was to go Turbo for the owners power goal and driving habit's.
#17
I am turning my 122HH a lot faster with nowhere near those temps. I understand there is a difference between my style and the Radix. We ran mine for 2 days on the dyno at 15 psi and never saw temps over the 160's with no meth. We had to beat it with repeated back to back pulls to get to the 160's. I run mine on the street and see between 108-118 around town and the 130's at the end of a long pull.
I also watched Grip with his and the highest temps we saw at closed throttle blade after a long pull at 10 psi was 150 degree IAT's. I also understand that in repeated pulls on a dyno the temp will climb but not that high without a reason.
I understand that you were not part of the build, but to have temps like that tells me something is not right and a turbo wont fix the problem.
I also watched Grip with his and the highest temps we saw at closed throttle blade after a long pull at 10 psi was 150 degree IAT's. I also understand that in repeated pulls on a dyno the temp will climb but not that high without a reason.
I understand that you were not part of the build, but to have temps like that tells me something is not right and a turbo wont fix the problem.
#18
Like I told Randy today, there is something in his combo that is causing these issues. There are hundreds of people making the power and not seeing these temps. I figured Slowhawk is trying to talk him into running a turbo, I could tell in Randy's messages that he is discouraged. I figured it would only be a short time before that shop sucked him dry wore him down and tried to talk him into a 8000.00 turbo system.
#19
GFYS and STFU
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Here and sometimes there too.

Both systems are proven...Don't go turbo because of IAT's, there's plenty of reasons to go turbo but high IAT's isn't the right reason. There's something not right with the combo, find that problem first then decide on whether to go turbo. However, going turbo is something Slowhawk is really really good at doing!
#20
I and a few others have looked thru the whole motor and can't seem to find anything other than the compression that can be causing the IAT issues. I've had the pan off and checked the bottom end, and clearances, had the heads off, milled and pistons looked fine. The exhaust is Dynatech LT's, gutted cats and true 3" duals, so there's no restriction there. Now granted I haven't redyno'd since I solved the hi-oil temp problems, and frankly that cud have contributed to all kinds of heat. Oil temps are down to normal (212-220*) and engine temps are easy 15-20* cooler (180-185*) It certainly drives better now.
I'm certainly open to suggestions! Seems that throwing more cash at this is getting old tho. By the time it gets solved I cud just have someone build me a new motor - heck I can get a crate 427 for $12k and make the same power if not more!
I'm certainly open to suggestions! Seems that throwing more cash at this is getting old tho. By the time it gets solved I cud just have someone build me a new motor - heck I can get a crate 427 for $12k and make the same power if not more!







