Perfect, I'll give that a try tonight. This is going in an open top Jeep on 41" tires so noise isn't exactly a concern....I just want it reliable and powerful.

 

You talking about slop with the nose drive? It has been a few months since I put it on, but I don't remember ever giving it a second thought when working with it off the truck. I want to say no more than 5-10 degrees of free movement either way before catching. I might also be in denial since it was so expensive

 

some movement is normal. I am listening to the video and questioning the nose drive. Since the kit was purchased used ( at what appears to be a good price ) I would check it just in case.

 

Yeah it was cheap enough that even if I buy a whole new top unit I'm still well ahead of the game....I shouldn't need to do that though. I do need to pick up a few accessories, like the idler and tensioner pulleys and their mounting bracket, heat exchangers(anybody know where to find some roughly 12"x12" ?), etc. Those were damaged in an accident but the blower itself and most of the important stuff is still there. Since you're a Maggie rep and already being very helpful I'll probably see about getting this stuff through you

 

Well, you were right for the most part. It was the "torsional isolator" but it wasn't damaged. Whoever put it together lined it up wrong. The dowel pins on the drive gear were on the wrong side of the pockets in the isolator. Rather than the spring pushing the dowel pin tight against the isolator, the dowels pushing directly on the plastic when the pulley is driven, and the dowels pushing back on the spring when the pulley stops(ie, engine turned off or slowing down) and the rotors haven't slowed down yet, it was working the opposite way. First off, the pocket was much wider on the other side of the spring so there was significant slop like shown in the video. Second, the spring was being compressed when the pulley is driven, then when the pulley stops the dowel would just hit the other side of the plastic(rather than being dampened by the spring) from the inertia of the rotors. I inspected everything, all was good, tight, and smooth and put it together in the correct orientation. It seems to be perfect now. No slop and everything is smooth.

I know that's a lot to try and read and understand, I'll post up pics in a bit. Thanks for the help!! I'm pumped, I was expecting an expensive repair bill.

Edit for pics:
The gear with dowel pins:


The "isolator"

The critical pocket is on the bottom with the spring in it. The way it was had the dowel to the right of the spring so it could freely move in the larger pocket. Now it's to the left of the spring, and it engages on the left hand side portion, which makes sense since those pads are replaceable. There's no slop now and everything turns the way you'd expect.

Here's a video of it turning now. No slop in either direction. My camera must amplify sounds cuz I didn't hear any of the clicking from the video, I think it's just slight movement from the spring compressing.


And for anyone cares, the whole setup is going on this:

Jeep Scrambler, Maggie 112 on cammed LQ4, 4L80E, Stak 3 speed t-case, D60 front, 14 bolt rear, lockers and 5.38 gears, 4 link front and rear, coilovers, ~20" suspension travel, 41" IROKs on 17" beadlocks, etc. With that drivetrain I'll need all the power I can get to spin it!

 

That thing is sick! Start up a thread for it in the "Build" section and keep us posted. Pics are always appreciated!

 

Killa!!!

 

what oil did you refill it with? I would suggest just getting the 29.00 oil fill kit and using the proper sealant, oil and coupler.

 

Looks like you're running car accessories on that engine?

 

good eye cody, that will put the nose drive out of the belt line.