You don't neet to go through all that horse **** to get chilled water. Just use your heater core as the heat exchanger, set the **** to hot and turn the AC on. That stuff looks really bulky too. Meth certainly has the weight advantage over a supplemental IC system.

 

liquid nitrogen! lol!

 

When you go WOT your A/C compressor disengages anyway. Obviously there would be some residual cooling effect from the parts being cold, but I would think that the effects would dissipate pretty quickly.

 

Another reason that chilled water is better. When the compressor is off, you still have a reserve of chilled water.
That was the point of this post, the rest is going to get long because I don't have anything better to do right now.
Capacity is the most important reason that chilled water is better than using refrigerant directly. The reason is that direct refrigerant to air cooling depends on the capacity of the A/C compressor.
For example let's assume you have 4-ton A/C compressor (substitute the word "horsepower" if that helps to visualize, although it is inaccurate). If your heat load is below 4 tons, you can cool the air as low as the design of the system allows. This is usually just above freezing to keep the evaporator from blocking the airflow with ice buildup from moisture in the intake air.
Now if load increases above 4 tons, either or both by increasing CFM of intake air or intake air temperature, you still will have only 4 tons of cooling and IATs will begin to rise.
On the other hand if you have a large enough chilled water storage tank, your IATs will rise only at the same rate that the water temperature does, up to the capacity of your intercooler and water pump. If you store two gallons, this might take 1/4 mile. If you insulate and fill your truck's bed with chilled water, it will take a long time before IATs rise. (Obviously to illustrate the difference in chilled water and direct refrigeration)
So while your compressor might have a 4-ton capacity, if you run it long enough to cool a whole pickup bed of water, you might have a thousand tons of cooling stored in the water (I bet vanillagorilla knows the math to figure how many BTUs are absorbed by a gallon of water when you raise its temperature from 32F to maybe 90F, depending on the I/C's efficiency and the IAT)

 

Like MikeGyver said, it doesn't dissipate if you have a large enough reservior. Let's say you have a truck that runs an 11.2 (oh wait...you do! ). Then you need 11.2 worth of chilled water to keep IAT's at bay. Sure as the turbo or SC is moving/compressing air as time contiues and as you make your way down the track, it will heat up. In other words the air temp the compressor spits out isn't constant down the track. It gets hotter throughout the run. But for simplicity and for the sake of staying away from transient heat transfer/thermo calcs, lets just say you need 11.2sec of chilled water and the IAT's are constant down the track.

You then size your reservoir according to the IC pumps flow rate and the time you need the chilled water. Bigger would seem to be better since it allows more time for you to stay in boost, but in the world of drag racing, you don't want to cary any more water (weight) than you need.

So lets say you have a IC pump that flows 2.5gal/min. You need it for 20 sec (I added a few sec for building boost on the line).

20sec=0.333min 2.5gal/min*.333min=0.833gal. This is the bare *** mininum size you'd need to ensure that you'd have chilled water for your entire run.

I ran my setup with no reservoir, and it worked great for short bursts, but took a few minutes to recover. I ran a 1gal reservoir and it worked great for the street since you're never in boost for more than few seconds. At the track I saw IAT's start to creep up, but then again my truck doesn't run 11's...yet.

 

Here is a different option to the same problem.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=428611
We had very good results, and the tank is just under 2gallons, not counting what water is in the lines, and intercooler itself. Have not tried the heater core set up yet; which would be easier to hook up and run. No needing an ac shop for the recharge.
Dripping water on the track is no bigby, you can use a 20.00 catch can under the truck to hold the water and then empty it once done.

 

What is the consensus on this killer chiller? I am needing a way to cool boost and this looks cheaper in the way or maintanence than meth.. no refill cost..chance of explosion... and around the same start up cost.