You CAN run 10.90's at 119MPH if you 60' hard. I ran 10.50's in vegas at 124MPH on lower boost vs 10.65@127 up here 14~15psi. I was able to cut a 1.43~1.45 60' in vegas 2100' vs 1.58 @pueblo raceway 4900',

 

you can make a 65e do it, i have more than once, for who knows how long is the real question , remember this guy has a ecsb. so it takes a bit more power to get 10's .

like stated above , take small steps when you make drastic changes with lots of parts you get a bug and have alot more things to retrace where you went wrong, if you take small steps youll know where you went wrong almost right away

every action as an equal reaction , we try to make the reaction = hp and not boom.

 

gotcha 1 foot at a time. Thanks again for all the help couldnt do it without all the help. Any idea on if i can use a t-case from a 80E so i dont have to change shafts?

 

If you look at the fastest truck list there is no 10 sec extended cab because it is very hard. It has only been done by a couple of people and I assure you that a turboed 6.0 on 10 lbs of boost wasn't the recipe. You will end up with a quick truck no doubt it will take more than the mods you're planning to get a 10 sec slip. If you're going forced induction then look at Wilderacing, 2004ss, and Thunder550 since they are the fastest Extended Cabs on boost.

 

If i were you i would work on the weak points first..

Rear Differential... Eaton LSD/ Trutrac

Transmisison... Go 80E the first time, you will thank yourself in the long run.. (Dont ask me how i know) It will be cheaper goin this route. Wiring adapter is for babys... Swap Brown and White wire on Transmission connector..

Fuel Pump/Injectors.. I cant remember the max HP supported by a Single Walbro 255 but you could do 2 intank pumps no problem. 65# injectors that are plug and play.. (PM me if you really want to know)

Drop the LQ4 in with the turbo and try to wipe the grin off your face..

 

pretty sure you can but you have to be carefull about mixing and matching stuff.

i tried once puting a autotrack case from a 2500ld truck in one of my trucks and the shaft on the side didn't match up with the servo that came on the truck.

what i did on my truck was use a manual tcase from a 2500hd truck. it is rated at twice the tq of the 1500/2500ld units. to make it work i had to plug the tcase survo in and just hang it under the truck(not conected to the tcase). i left the tcase locked in all the time other than when i went to the dyno. when you pushed the 4high button it would lock the front diff. when you pushed the 2hi button it would unlock the front diff and let you drive normal. i had to disable the 4wd low button, if that was pushed it would put the 4wd system into some kind of fault.

if i were to do it again i would just put the input shaft/hub in the 1500 case and see how long the tcase lasts. a 2500 tcase will cost you $500-$1000. the hub should cost less even with instalation but i am not sure of that.

 

you forgot one and mine is only a 5.3l but i agree, 10's are going to be an all out effort, not the grocery getter.

 

Oh and you should also look at Trever1t little 5.3L. He is making all the bigger motors look like

 

^^ That's better

 

From what i hear im over 300 lbs heavier then a scsb. Thats 3/10's right there so ill just shoot for 11's thats what im looking for. Ill just throw in the shafts on the 1500 t-case then,Im going to leave the stock gearing in it,just upgrade to stronger gears and get a locker,dont want a 1 tire wonder cant run good times on 1 wheel. So the 42lbs injectors wont cut it im going ot have to get 60lbs and a wlabro?