LQ4 + boost+ 100 wet shot.
Oh wait...
09-02-2008, 11:31 PM
#43
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From what i hear im over 300 lbs heavier then a scsb. Thats 3/10's right there so ill just shoot for 11's thats what im looking for. Ill just throw in the shafts on the 1500 t-case then,Im going to leave the stock gearing in it,just upgrade to stronger gears and get a locker,dont want a 1 tire wonder cant run good times on 1 wheel. So the 42lbs injectors wont cut it im going ot have to get 60lbs and a wlabro?
I replied to your PM.. but my 44#s are maxed out and im on a stock LQ4 @5psi... So your goin to need a minimum of 60#s or Methanol..
09-02-2008, 11:40 PM
#44
pretty sure you can but you have to be carefull about mixing and matching stuff.
i tried once puting a autotrack case from a 2500ld truck in one of my trucks and the shaft on the side didn't match up with the servo that came on the truck.
what i did on my truck was use a manual tcase from a 2500hd truck. it is rated at twice the tq of the 1500/2500ld units. to make it work i had to plug the tcase survo in and just hang it under the truck(not conected to the tcase). i left the tcase locked in all the time other than when i went to the dyno. when you pushed the 4high button it would lock the front diff. when you pushed the 2hi button it would unlock the front diff and let you drive normal. i had to disable the 4wd low button, if that was pushed it would put the 4wd system into some kind of fault.
if i were to do it again i would just put the input shaft/hub in the 1500 case and see how long the tcase lasts. a 2500 tcase will cost you $500-$1000. the hub should cost less even with instalation but i am not sure of that.
i tried once puting a autotrack case from a 2500ld truck in one of my trucks and the shaft on the side didn't match up with the servo that came on the truck.
what i did on my truck was use a manual tcase from a 2500hd truck. it is rated at twice the tq of the 1500/2500ld units. to make it work i had to plug the tcase survo in and just hang it under the truck(not conected to the tcase). i left the tcase locked in all the time other than when i went to the dyno. when you pushed the 4high button it would lock the front diff. when you pushed the 2hi button it would unlock the front diff and let you drive normal. i had to disable the 4wd low button, if that was pushed it would put the 4wd system into some kind of fault.
if i were to do it again i would just put the input shaft/hub in the 1500 case and see how long the tcase lasts. a 2500 tcase will cost you $500-$1000. the hub should cost less even with instalation but i am not sure of that.
09-03-2008, 12:05 AM
#45
you can make a 65e do it, i have more than once, for who knows how long is the real question , remember this guy has a ecsb. so it takes a bit more power to get 10's .
like stated above , take small steps when you make drastic changes with lots of parts you get a bug and have alot more things to retrace where you went wrong, if you take small steps youll know where you went wrong almost right away
every action as an equal reaction , we try to make the reaction = hp and not boom.
like stated above , take small steps when you make drastic changes with lots of parts you get a bug and have alot more things to retrace where you went wrong, if you take small steps youll know where you went wrong almost right away
every action as an equal reaction , we try to make the reaction = hp and not boom.
09-03-2008, 01:13 AM
#46
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HMMM well i have brand new No2 kit not even out of the box wondering if i should sell it and just buy some methnol,"small steps" took a leap getting that kit.
09-03-2008, 07:42 AM
#47
one power adder is enough to get used too. adding another one into the mix is making it more complicated. listen to everyone that has posted. especially Parish. hes sorta the pioneer for turbo trucks. others have learned and went their own ways. if you notice most are staying one power adder for simplicity
sell the n20, if later on you think you need it then buy it again but for now use that money to get you up and running.
sell the n20, if later on you think you need it then buy it again but for now use that money to get you up and running.
09-03-2008, 12:21 PM
#48
How do I change this text
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Yes but because he is heavier EC, he wont be able to 60 as well as you did (do)
one power adder is enough to get used too. adding another one into the mix is making it more complicated. listen to everyone that has posted. especially Parish. hes sorta the pioneer for turbo trucks. others have learned and went their own ways. if you notice most are staying one power adder for simplicity
sell the n20, if later on you think you need it then buy it again but for now use that money to get you up and running.
sell the n20, if later on you think you need it then buy it again but for now use that money to get you up and running.
Agreed. Sell me your nitrous kit....
09-03-2008, 03:54 PM
#49
300 lbs will affect the 60' .15 at the most. One thing I have noticed with the ex cabs is the longer wheel base keeps the truck from lifting as bad. Once you get in the 1.4X 60' it's almost impossable to keep the front end on the ground with a RC pickup. Even if the front is strapped down.
09-03-2008, 05:23 PM
#50
Launching!
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Ok i got the 1 thing at a time im all over that. Im still getting the meth kit and saving for the intercooler. Going ahead and getting the 80E might as well not waste the time with the 65 or 60. My truck has the shifter on the floor for 4wd is the going to make things with wiring for the tranny and t-case any more work?