lookin to procharge..
Oct 4, 2010 | 01:17 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
lookin to procharge..
Ok so i'm pretty new to all this and i've spent the last couple hours looking and reading about procharging my truck. i've got a 07 nnbs Vmax with the 6.0 ecsb 4x4 as of right now all i have is a CAI and 2 1/2 true duals and a superchips tune.
So i think i know what i want but i need some help in the right direction. Basically what i'm thinkin is go with 8psi for right now and end up goin 10 psi sometime later cause i know i'll want more haha. I'm wanting to go ahead and start some upgrades to the 6.0 before i do the procharger. My memory sucks so bare with me but i wanna go ahead and get some headers(idk shorties or longs) LS6 intake and the 90mm TB and upgrade the MAF(sugestions?) and do a cam. Which cam would be the best for runnin 8-10PSI of boost. I do plan on runnin a stahl converter(idk how big) vette servo and 3-4 servo but what else should i do to the trans? i DD my truck and dont really wanna destroy it but i wanna do what i can to max the potential, within reason, of the truck.
I just started buying a house so this will be a drawn out process and what not but i'm the type to do all kinds of research before ill even start a build or anything never done one like this if ya couldnt tell btw lol
So i think i know what i want but i need some help in the right direction. Basically what i'm thinkin is go with 8psi for right now and end up goin 10 psi sometime later cause i know i'll want more haha. I'm wanting to go ahead and start some upgrades to the 6.0 before i do the procharger. My memory sucks so bare with me but i wanna go ahead and get some headers(idk shorties or longs) LS6 intake and the 90mm TB and upgrade the MAF(sugestions?) and do a cam. Which cam would be the best for runnin 8-10PSI of boost. I do plan on runnin a stahl converter(idk how big) vette servo and 3-4 servo but what else should i do to the trans? i DD my truck and dont really wanna destroy it but i wanna do what i can to max the potential, within reason, of the truck.
I just started buying a house so this will be a drawn out process and what not but i'm the type to do all kinds of research before ill even start a build or anything never done one like this if ya couldnt tell btw lol
Oct 4, 2010 | 02:55 AM
#2
Here's my .02 based on what I "think" you want. Get a D1sc kit with the upgraded 3-core intercooler to start, instead of the p1sc and/or the 2-core cooler. It's cheaper to just buy this stuff now instead of trying to upgrade later. If your looking for a simple bolt in style kit, this is about the best way to do it. I wouldn't worry about trying to fab up a front mount intercooler for what your trying to do and this will save you time and $$$. I've proven the vertical 3-core intercooler at over 700 rwhp and used to drive it all the time in the summer months with no IAT problems. To get your boost goals, I'd start with about a 4.25" blower pulley and pin your stock balancer.
You wanna do headers? Get some of the 1 3/4 long tube pacesetters. They are affordable, bolt right in, and can support a good amount of power. No need to spend 1k on some of the other header kits that do the same thing.
Personally I would not waste your money on the ls6 intake, 90mm tb or an upgraded MAF at this point for several reasons. Your forcing the air through the intake with the blower so you will not realize the same gains as an N/A combo. Save your money for other upgrades first. I've gone 10.40's with the stock 78mm tb. As far as the MAF goes, same principal, your forcing air through it and the stock one tunes a lot easier than an aftermarket. So save your $ for other upgrades. More than likely you max the MAF past 10psi (when you get there) anyway and end up going to an SD tune and not even using it. Again, I ran 10.40's blowing through the stock MAF with the screen still in it.
If your gonna do a cam, thats gonna be a personal preference. If its your daily driver, I'd recommend staying under 230* duration. Also, no need to get crazy with the cam if your only looking to make 8-10 psi. Not sure what your power goals are but you can make 450+rwhp with a stock cam with boost. If your dead set on a cam, but want great street manners, a z06 cam or something in the 215-220 duration range could probably net you another 30-40 rwhp in a boosted motor.
Remember me telling you to skip somethings to spend the $ else where? Thats where the trans comes in. A bone stock 4l60 won't last long behind an FI motor. I'd suggest giving FLT a call. Have them spec a tranny for you. Spend the money once to do it right. You'll come out ahead in the long run and won't have to deal with the down time of fixing transmissions.
As far as torque converters go, prochargers love all the stall you can throw at them. However, the cam and tq converter need to be matched up to take full advantage of either. My recomendation......anything in the 2400-3000 range would be perfect for daily driving and good performance. I'd recommend calling Chris at Circle-D or Vicky at Precision for a good converter. If your gonna be drag racing, you'd obviously benefit with something looser, like in the 3600 to 4000 range. That could get annoying driving everyday though.
Additional things you'll need but didn't mention:
Fuel upgrades. At a minimum, you'll need bigger injectors, pump and regulator (if your return-style).
A good tune. Use someone reputable and get a live tune done. Skip the mailorder or handheld thing.
Gauges. I'd recommend an A/F ratio gauge at a minimum. Learning how to watch one of these can save your motor if the tuneup is bad or something is wrong.
Meth Injection. This is optionable, but aside from being able to make more power, it will offer some added protection against detonation.
Lastly, do a ton of reading on here. There is a lot of information to be read. The key is being able to sort through the bullshit and the stuff that is actually true.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm bored so I figured I'd help you get going in the right direction. Let me know if you have any other questions. I might be able to help you out a bit.
Welcome to pt.net!
You wanna do headers? Get some of the 1 3/4 long tube pacesetters. They are affordable, bolt right in, and can support a good amount of power. No need to spend 1k on some of the other header kits that do the same thing.
Personally I would not waste your money on the ls6 intake, 90mm tb or an upgraded MAF at this point for several reasons. Your forcing the air through the intake with the blower so you will not realize the same gains as an N/A combo. Save your money for other upgrades first. I've gone 10.40's with the stock 78mm tb. As far as the MAF goes, same principal, your forcing air through it and the stock one tunes a lot easier than an aftermarket. So save your $ for other upgrades. More than likely you max the MAF past 10psi (when you get there) anyway and end up going to an SD tune and not even using it. Again, I ran 10.40's blowing through the stock MAF with the screen still in it.
If your gonna do a cam, thats gonna be a personal preference. If its your daily driver, I'd recommend staying under 230* duration. Also, no need to get crazy with the cam if your only looking to make 8-10 psi. Not sure what your power goals are but you can make 450+rwhp with a stock cam with boost. If your dead set on a cam, but want great street manners, a z06 cam or something in the 215-220 duration range could probably net you another 30-40 rwhp in a boosted motor.
Remember me telling you to skip somethings to spend the $ else where? Thats where the trans comes in. A bone stock 4l60 won't last long behind an FI motor. I'd suggest giving FLT a call. Have them spec a tranny for you. Spend the money once to do it right. You'll come out ahead in the long run and won't have to deal with the down time of fixing transmissions.
As far as torque converters go, prochargers love all the stall you can throw at them. However, the cam and tq converter need to be matched up to take full advantage of either. My recomendation......anything in the 2400-3000 range would be perfect for daily driving and good performance. I'd recommend calling Chris at Circle-D or Vicky at Precision for a good converter. If your gonna be drag racing, you'd obviously benefit with something looser, like in the 3600 to 4000 range. That could get annoying driving everyday though.
Additional things you'll need but didn't mention:
Fuel upgrades. At a minimum, you'll need bigger injectors, pump and regulator (if your return-style).
A good tune. Use someone reputable and get a live tune done. Skip the mailorder or handheld thing.
Gauges. I'd recommend an A/F ratio gauge at a minimum. Learning how to watch one of these can save your motor if the tuneup is bad or something is wrong.
Meth Injection. This is optionable, but aside from being able to make more power, it will offer some added protection against detonation.
Lastly, do a ton of reading on here. There is a lot of information to be read. The key is being able to sort through the bullshit and the stuff that is actually true.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm bored so I figured I'd help you get going in the right direction. Let me know if you have any other questions. I might be able to help you out a bit.
Welcome to pt.net!
Last edited by Blown06; Oct 4, 2010 at 03:03 AM.
Oct 4, 2010 | 05:02 AM
#3
Here's my .02 based on what I "think" you want. Get a D1sc kit with the upgraded 3-core intercooler to start, instead of the p1sc and/or the 2-core cooler. It's cheaper to just buy this stuff now instead of trying to upgrade later. If your looking for a simple bolt in style kit, this is about the best way to do it. I wouldn't worry about trying to fab up a front mount intercooler for what your trying to do and this will save you time and $$$. I've proven the vertical 3-core intercooler at over 700 rwhp and used to drive it all the time in the summer months with no IAT problems. To get your boost goals, I'd start with about a 4.25" blower pulley and pin your stock balancer.
You wanna do headers? Get some of the 1 3/4 long tube pacesetters. They are affordable, bolt right in, and can support a good amount of power. No need to spend 1k on some of the other header kits that do the same thing.
Personally I would not waste your money on the ls6 intake, 90mm tb or an upgraded MAF at this point for several reasons. Your forcing the air through the intake with the blower so you will not realize the same gains as an N/A combo. Save your money for other upgrades first. I've gone 10.40's with the stock 78mm tb. As far as the MAF goes, same principal, your forcing air through it and the stock one tunes a lot easier than an aftermarket. So save your $ for other upgrades. More than likely you max the MAF past 10psi (when you get there) anyway and end up going to an SD tune and not even using it. Again, I ran 10.40's blowing through the stock MAF with the screen still in it.
If your gonna do a cam, thats gonna be a personal preference. If its your daily driver, I'd recommend staying under 230* duration. Also, no need to get crazy with the cam if your only looking to make 8-10 psi. Not sure what your power goals are but you can make 450+rwhp with a stock cam with boost. If your dead set on a cam, but want great street manners, a z06 cam or something in the 215-220 duration range could probably net you another 30-40 rwhp in a boosted motor.
Remember me telling you to skip somethings to spend the $ else where? Thats where the trans comes in. A bone stock 4l60 won't last long behind an FI motor. I'd suggest giving FLT a call. Have them spec a tranny for you. Spend the money once to do it right. You'll come out ahead in the long run and won't have to deal with the down time of fixing transmissions.
As far as torque converters go, prochargers love all the stall you can throw at them. However, the cam and tq converter need to be matched up to take full advantage of either. My recomendation......anything in the 2400-3000 range would be perfect for daily driving and good performance. I'd recommend calling Chris at Circle-D or Vicky at Precision for a good converter. If your gonna be drag racing, you'd obviously benefit with something looser, like in the 3600 to 4000 range. That could get annoying driving everyday though.
Additional things you'll need but didn't mention:
Fuel upgrades. At a minimum, you'll need bigger injectors, pump and regulator (if your return-style).
A good tune. Use someone reputable and get a live tune done. Skip the mailorder or handheld thing.
Gauges. I'd recommend an A/F ratio gauge at a minimum. Learning how to watch one of these can save your motor if the tuneup is bad or something is wrong.
Meth Injection. This is optionable, but aside from being able to make more power, it will offer some added protection against detonation.
Lastly, do a ton of reading on here. There is a lot of information to be read. The key is being able to sort through the bullshit and the stuff that is actually true.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm bored so I figured I'd help you get going in the right direction. Let me know if you have any other questions. I might be able to help you out a bit.
Welcome to pt.net!
You wanna do headers? Get some of the 1 3/4 long tube pacesetters. They are affordable, bolt right in, and can support a good amount of power. No need to spend 1k on some of the other header kits that do the same thing.
Personally I would not waste your money on the ls6 intake, 90mm tb or an upgraded MAF at this point for several reasons. Your forcing the air through the intake with the blower so you will not realize the same gains as an N/A combo. Save your money for other upgrades first. I've gone 10.40's with the stock 78mm tb. As far as the MAF goes, same principal, your forcing air through it and the stock one tunes a lot easier than an aftermarket. So save your $ for other upgrades. More than likely you max the MAF past 10psi (when you get there) anyway and end up going to an SD tune and not even using it. Again, I ran 10.40's blowing through the stock MAF with the screen still in it.
If your gonna do a cam, thats gonna be a personal preference. If its your daily driver, I'd recommend staying under 230* duration. Also, no need to get crazy with the cam if your only looking to make 8-10 psi. Not sure what your power goals are but you can make 450+rwhp with a stock cam with boost. If your dead set on a cam, but want great street manners, a z06 cam or something in the 215-220 duration range could probably net you another 30-40 rwhp in a boosted motor.
Remember me telling you to skip somethings to spend the $ else where? Thats where the trans comes in. A bone stock 4l60 won't last long behind an FI motor. I'd suggest giving FLT a call. Have them spec a tranny for you. Spend the money once to do it right. You'll come out ahead in the long run and won't have to deal with the down time of fixing transmissions.
As far as torque converters go, prochargers love all the stall you can throw at them. However, the cam and tq converter need to be matched up to take full advantage of either. My recomendation......anything in the 2400-3000 range would be perfect for daily driving and good performance. I'd recommend calling Chris at Circle-D or Vicky at Precision for a good converter. If your gonna be drag racing, you'd obviously benefit with something looser, like in the 3600 to 4000 range. That could get annoying driving everyday though.
Additional things you'll need but didn't mention:
Fuel upgrades. At a minimum, you'll need bigger injectors, pump and regulator (if your return-style).
A good tune. Use someone reputable and get a live tune done. Skip the mailorder or handheld thing.
Gauges. I'd recommend an A/F ratio gauge at a minimum. Learning how to watch one of these can save your motor if the tuneup is bad or something is wrong.
Meth Injection. This is optionable, but aside from being able to make more power, it will offer some added protection against detonation.
Lastly, do a ton of reading on here. There is a lot of information to be read. The key is being able to sort through the bullshit and the stuff that is actually true.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm bored so I figured I'd help you get going in the right direction. Let me know if you have any other questions. I might be able to help you out a bit.
Welcome to pt.net!
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Oct 4, 2010 | 02:52 PM
#9
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 222
Likes: 2
x5. Just take your time and do it right. Research each topic until your comfortable with your choices and what your doing.
Also if you have any more questions don't be afraid to ask, alot of knowledgeable people on here that have been there more than once.
Also if you have any more questions don't be afraid to ask, alot of knowledgeable people on here that have been there more than once.
Oct 4, 2010 | 03:17 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
If your gonna do a cam, thats gonna be a personal preference. If its your daily driver, I'd recommend staying under 230* duration. Also, no need to get crazy with the cam if your only looking to make 8-10 psi. Not sure what your power goals are but you can make 450+rwhp with a stock cam with boost. If your dead set on a cam, but want great street manners, a z06 cam or something in the 215-220 duration range could probably net you another 30-40 rwhp in a boosted motor.
Hey no reason to be sorry you've been a huge help. Thanks for the info its pretty good stuff. Getting thru all the bs is the hard part haha but i've been trying to do a lot of reading and get as much knoledge that i can so i dont have to ask stupid Q's but then again i'd rather hear it for certain then to be on the fence bout some things.